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About Google Book Search Google's mission is to organize the world's information and to make it universally accessible and useful. Google Book Search helps readers discover the world's books while helping authors and publishers reach new audiences. You can search through the full text of this book on the web at jhttp : //books . qooqle . com/ . LONDON PKNITBD BY SI'OTTI SWOOOB AND CO. NEW-gTREET SQUARE CORDON TRAINING FRUIT TREES DIAGONAL, VERTICAL, SPIRAL, HORIZONTAL ADAPTED TO THE ORCHARD-HOUSE AND OPEN-AIR CULTURE EEV. T. COLLINGS BK^HAUT /, LONDON LONGMAN, GREEN, LONGMAN, AND ROBERTS 1860 CONTENTS. Chapter Page I. Introductory 1 II. General Principles of Fruit Culture ... 8 III. Seasons for Planting and Pruning .16 IV. Defects of some Methods of Fruit Culture . 24 V. Cordon Training ; its Advantages and Uses . 29 VI. Cordon Training in Peach Trees ; the Diagonal Cordon * 36 VII. Spiral Cordons 59 VIII. Vertical Cordons . •. . .61 IX. Horizontal Cordons 64 X. Cordon Training in Apricot Trees .67 XI. Cordon Training in Plum and Cherry Trees . .71 XII. Cordon Training in Pear Trees . . .77 XIII. Horizontal, Vertical, and Spiral Cordons in Pear Trees 82 XIV. Eemarks on Trees in Pots 86 XV. How to Supply Blank Spaces in Cordons . 95 XVI. Objections to Cordon Training answered 98 XVII. Eemarks on the Dimensions, &c, suitable for Orchard-houses 103 XVIII. Names of some Varieties recommended for In- door and Out-door Culture . .106 XIX. Concluding Observations 114 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. Frontispiece to face Htlepage. Figure to face page I. Fruit-spur on the Peach, showing the suc- cessive growths, and alternate pruning. „ 52 II. Fruit-spurs on the Peach. ~ Alternate Pruning — Second Appearance . . „ 54 III. Formation of Fruit-spurs on the Apricot. — First Winter's Pruning „ 68 IV. Formation of Fruit-spurs on the Apricot. — Second Winter's Pruning „ 70 V. Formation of Spurs on the Plum. — First Winter's Pruning . . . . „ 72 VI. Formation of Fruitful Spurs on the Plum. — Second Winter's Pruning . . . „ 74 VII. Formation of Fruitful Spurs on the Pear. — Commencement . . . . ,, 78 VIII. Formation of Fruitful Spurs on the Pear. — Completion „ 80 & OF THE > N > CORDON TRAINING. CHAPTER I. INTRODUCTORY. Most books, whatever their size or subject, are better understood for some sort of prefatory re- marks, and in an age and country in which horticulture meets with such high patronage, it may seem presumptuous for an amateur to treat of such a subject; it may appear uncalled for ; and may even require explanation of his motives. This feeling is not altogether without its uses, and the author hastens to say, that this short work is the result of much leisure time, which an enforced idleness, the result of over-fatigue in the charge of a large parish, unexpectedly created. Summer after summer, and winter after winter, was passed by him abroad. It was impossible to' B o 2 CORDON TRAINING. be unemployed, and thus he was enabled to ob- serve the various modes of fruit culture practised in different countries. This is an advantage, which is not always within the reach of the most experienced gar- dener. But with the exception of certain in- digenous fruits, it is not necessary so to wander to be convinced of the inferiority of continental gardening, taken as a whole, compared with that of England. It is only as we return northwards, that we can appreciate the skill by which the very necessities of climate have led to the in- troduction of methods which have more than compensated for the want of sun heat. A liberal fuse of glass enables us, ey§n _wMlQ5t'^ctifi©i%l /hgat, to obtain dry and equable temperatures, Which rival the climate of the most fertile portions ( of France ; and this without risk of damage ) from the spring frosts, which, in those localities, Vare so injurious to vegetation. It is not too much to anticipate the day when every small garden will be considered deficient in one of its most indispensable requisites, if it fail to have its orchard house, as well as its modest vinery. Persons of moderate means will ever find the orchard house a source of amusement and profit. It is easy to construct ; equally easy to stock ; the management is simple and readily understood, and the author is very desirous of showing how a moderate amount of expense will IMPERFECTION OP FRUIT CULTURE. 3 enable any one to be his " own gardener," and be thus liberated from a degrading dependence on the caprice of unskilled men. To his brethren, the clergy, scattered in vil- lages, and thus necessarily somewhat dependent on the limited resources which these can supply, it seemed to him a grateful task to state his own experience, and if he shall be able in any degree to simplify the practice of fruit culture, and thus save a portion of their invaluable time, his own labour will certainly not have been thrown away. There is no doubt that fruit culture is, as yet, very imperfectly understood, even by scientific men. Great advances are, however, being made daily in this interesting branch, and it is certain that few things tend more to further this pro- gress, than a simple and honest description of experience. Every one can thus greatly judge for himself; and, by comparing his own obser- vations with the notes made by others, who are not more skilful, but who have more leisure, he may reach a certain standard, which must be of immense value in practice. It is difficult to account for the reticence observed in these matters, and this is, doubtless, one great reason why we do not advance as we should. At the same time it is absolutely necessary to be cautious in drawing conclusions from isolated facts. There are many concurrent circumstances B 2 4 CORDON TRAINING, to be taken into consideration, which are not always allowed, at the time, to have their due weight. It thus often happens that the observer who feels almost certain of some new and im- portant discovery, has too often to recant his errors before the close of the season. All these doubts greatly check and embarrass the amateur, but they have their uses in preventing rash and vain experiments, as well as in saving unnecessary expense. But in cases where, after a certain time allowed for reflection, a succession of ascer- tained results have arisen, any one, actuated by the simple desire to communicate his own ad- vantages to others, can never be open to censure. A man who does this only fulfils his duty. The author, as stated, had been in delicate health for a long period ; and this cause has ren- dered him desirous of making known to invalids the benefits arising from the study of Fruitxjulture, which in all its branches is so suitable a pursuit for such persons, In the form of Orchard-house culture little can be better adapted to restore health ; for from the dry state of the atmosphere, and the free circulation of air uncharged with the odours emanating from flowers, a walk in almost all weathers is secured ; while the mind, diverted from gloomy thoughts, by the sight of the beau- tiful young trees, either in full blossom or laden with fruit, or even in their rest, gains a healthy THE TRIPLE DIAGONAL CORDON* 5 tone, and finds all suggestive in the highest degree. The writer never suffered, as he feared, from draughts of cold air ; though, of course, common precautions must be observed, as in rough weather, or in periods of frost. His own Orchard-house has been to him a source of untiring pleasure, and he has learnt in it more of the habits of the various trees than could ever have been expected under the old systems* The variety of the trees is so great, their habits and products are so different, that the attention is soon arrested, and the cultivator cannot avoid remarking all this. But if, in addition, he has the patience to follow up the seasons, note-book in hand, it is truly astonishing how much a mere amateur may quickly and readily learn. Open air culture has, of course, its own peculiar charms, though not so fascinating, and no doubt is preferable in very hot weather. Another motive which presented itself, was the wish to make known the decided success of a novel method of fruit culture, called gene- rally " Cordon Training." One form had been found extremely adapted for the back wall of a lean-to orchard-house; this was the Diagonal Cordon, with three leaders, — a form which may be considered as the perfection of the whole method. It has a certain resemblance to the single oblique training practised so success- fully at Montreuil, near Paris ; very important B 3 6 CORDON TRAINING. modifications were required, however, before any practical result could be depended upon. The climate of France is so different from that of England, that what is proper in the one case becomes almost useless in the other ; and the whole system now presented to the public is so altered, so combined, and, in the case of Orchard-house culture, so fundamentally different from the French system, that it may be considered as a separate method, originating from several others. Examples of this will abundantly occur as the various forms are entered into and described. It will be sufficient here to state, that the repeated summer pinchings, by which the shoots on the spurs are rendered compact and fruitful, are partly described in a work published in 1812. This suggested the system put into practice at Chartres very lately. In the Orchard-house it £ \ must soon supersede any other, and is recom- mended in the eighth edition of Mr. Rivers' ex- cellent work. Of course in the case of Diagonal training, important modifications have beenintro* duced, rendered necessary by the angle at which the trees lie, and also by the exigencies of the climate. / As the French have no cultivation worth men- / tioning under glass (and indeed it is only in Eng- land that this invaluable advantage is properly appreciated), the treatment of these spurs requires peculiar changes, more especially in the case of *?w PRODUCE OF ORCHARD-HOUSE. 7 pottefl trees, in which the scientific research of Mr. Rivers has created a new field. With respect to the actual results as yet ob- tained, the back wall of my Orchard-house, which is a lean-to, produced this year at the rate of three peaches per square foot. On this wall alone the produce was at the rate ^ of 600 fine peaches and nectarines (some of the former were nine inches in circumference), so that a house 100 feet long and proportionately broad, might reasonably be expected to produce 2000 nectarines and late peaches on the back wall, and at least as many more apricots and mid-season fruits upon the rows of trees in pots. This crop, by no means an extraordinary one in fair seasons, could reasonably be hoped for by following the Cordon training which is here de- scribed. One word more as to the expense of Orchard- houses. At the usual rate, one 30 feet long by 12 broad, should not cost more than 30/. The returns for this outlay would be great under fair management, the more so as 3Z. or 4/. in addition would be sufficient to stock the house with trees, half of them in a bearing state. A week's visit to the Continent would cost quite as much as this handsome ornament to a garden woum, aatafford, in the course of time, far more real amusement. B4 CORDON TRAINING. CHAP. II. GENERAL PRINCIPLES OF FRUIT CULTURE. The details, brief as they are, of this work, would not readily be appreciated if a few general principles, obvious and reasonable, were not first stated. General maxims are often neglected in practice, so that it becomes necessary to repeat them in a short work such as this, because they render the details more intelligible. Many unskilled persons assert that the scientific culture of fruit trees has neither the effect of in- creasing their productive powers, nor of prolong- ing their vitality. Both these statements are untrue. Experience has fully proved that certain principles are necessary to be followed; under these the results have been good : it is the devia- tion from them that is the cause of failure. ^X It seems pretty certain that the 'office of the ascending sap is to nourish and increase the volume of the whole tree, while, by its passage through, / s ) and change while in the leaves, and by its return to the roots, it promotes the production of fruit. ^mmpj*mm&j*—m—*m ACTION OP THE SAP. — LOCALITY. 9 i The sap becomes stored up, and ripened by the action of light and heat, and in proportion as this action is retarded or augmented, the tree is either productive or barren. A certain action commu- nicated to the sap will develop the whole system in redundant wood. All this is modified by at- tendant circumstances, but it is the general rule. To regulate, distribute, and harmonise all these functions is the duty of cultivation, and surely the preservation of the balance between root and branch, and between fertility and extension, can but have the effect of increasing the amount of production, and also by economising the vitality of the tree, lengthening its life. The locality chosen for any particular tree is *) of great importance, and demands much reflection. ^ In this the amateur must submit to be guided ^ by the experience of others, while he carefully ( observes for himself. Before any final decision, he should make a tour of the gardens in his neighbourhood. He should attentively note the varieties which flourish best in the soil and aspect which correspond with those in his own garden. The fruits most common in the neighbouring markets should also be considered, unless they are of an inferior description. These observations will not appear trivial to an amateur. Every one has experienced the value of such things who has commenced a career of horticulture. In these cases a reference to the catalogue of a 10 CORDON TRAINING. respectable nursery is invaluable, and may also be a great subject of amusement. j^ One hint more. In selecting the trees, let no one be influenced by the mere price, for it is of the greatest importance to have well grown and healthy trees to begin your experiments upon, and to avoid discouragement in the outset. The selection then being made, the amateur should remember, that the natural tendency of the sap is to flow upwards and towards the ex- tremities of the branches, so that without due care, especially at the commencement, the centre of the tree, and the lowest branches (in the case of those on walls) become less vigorously stimu- , lated, and are thus dwarfed in comparison with those higher up. This will cause an unequal distribution of fertility, and quickly destroy all the harmony and symmetry of the tree. The leaves, according to their number and healthy state, draw up and attract the sap. Therefore a branch, once enfeebled, has by its very want of pouter, an increased chance of decay. We must, therefore, endeavour to avoid this feebleness. Again, by this irregular distribution of strength, the whole tree is disturbed, and eventually ruined. For when in this diseased condition it receives any shock, as by an attack of blight (perhaps by two or three successive attacks) ; by injury to its roots from any cause ; by any of its branches breaking in a gale of wind ; the first irregularity FUNCTION OF LEAVES. 11 of form becomes so considerably augmented, that few trees are able to remedy this defect by a spontaneous effort of nature, and the expectations of years become frustrated in a single season. When, then, we perceive a commencement of V this want of due vigour in any branch, we mustC. hasten to remedy it. There are various ways of obtaining this object, but I refrain at present' from mentioning many of them. One excellent plan is to allow a larger number of leaves on a weak branch than on a strong one. The reason < for this has been stated above. The leaves are the lungs of the tree, and attract and modify the sap, which is little altered till it reaches the leaves. When it does reach them, it ceases to be sap, properly so called ;. it becomes the "proper yq juice." Discharged into the bark, it is thence ^ A, carried, by cellular channels, throughout the tree. From this "proper juice," that is, converted ^^^ sap, the fruit attracts what it needs to produce \ flavour. The more the tree secretes the better. \ Pruning and training here play a great part./ By removing a portion of the leaves on a vigorous f branch (cutting them in two is the best), and by ) &b allowing as many as possible on a weak branch, ) we equalise both. Removal of some of the 1 leaves produces flavour in the fruit. But we ) speak here, chiefly, of the growth of the tree, and its regulation. **1 12 CORDON TRAINING. ^3» Another method of strengthening a weak branch is to untie it from the wall, and allow it to swing loosely in the free play of sun and air on all its sides,— ^-one, at least, of which would otherwise receive nothing. Of course, then, to tie down a branch to the tree has a contrary effect, and the more we approach the horizontal position, not to speak of the extreme method of bending it downwards altogether, the more the branch is checked in its development outwards. So, if it is desired to lengthen a branch, it must / (be directed upwards ; and a branch tied, for a ,'• season, vertically, and exposed at the same time, ( in wall trees, to the free action of light and air, will grow much more rapidly than another tied to the wall, and carried into a horizontal line. This is a useful maxim to remember, because it may be so readily applied in nearly every case that can occur. ^J> If we wish to give a temporary check to a too vigorous branch, we must diminish the number of leaf-buds on it, and allow a rather too abun- dant crop of fruit on the fruit-buds, while, at the same^time, the weaker side should be raised vertically. and aaot allowed to bear at all. Of course the tree will not look so pretty in this way for the season, until the winter pruning shall harmonise the whole ; and this is often a reason for neglecting this very useful plan. By pinching off the green ends of branches some TERMINAL BUDS. 13 time before the others, those first reduced in length are checked in their growth, because they have not so many leaves from being shorter. In cases of great necessity, you may even cover over the leaves of a strong branch with some light but impervious material, for a week at a time. It should be no longer, taking care to observe if the foliage becomes injured or not. Nevertheless, I do not recommend this method, which is more practised in France than in England. If it be wished to prologgany branch (no matter its vigour), we must concentrate the whole power of the sap into one or two buds by cutting down to them, taking care that these buds are healthy, and, above all, placed exactly as the new extension is desired to be. Terminal buds are always more vigorous than lateral buds, because the sap is conducted more directly to them. To lengthen a branch, always remember to cut .'*" well down to the bud selected for the new shoot, ) not, however, so near as to weaken it, but near ( enough that nothing useless be left beyond, be- ' cause, during the drying up of that part, the bud v is checked, and the object is to advance its growth. } To obtain fruit-buds, on the contrary, every aim k must be directed to keeping them, for one or two ' years, as the case may require, in a dormant state. ] To effect this, you must divert the full current of ) «, 14 CORDON TRAINING. the sap away from them, so that it shall pass them by, but without completely drying them up, which would be a great fault. A leaf-bud or two must, therefore, be suffered to extend beyond any flower-bud, i.e., one properly so called. The eap having passed vigorously up the main con- duits of the tree, and in the leaves having been converted from sap into te proper juice," must be so diverted from the flower-buds as only to nourish their fertility without causing them to elongate in the form of branches. Nevertheless, in the case of the peach, should any bud remain absolutely dormant for two seasons, it will hardly ever be developed at all. ^ When trees have obtained a certain size, their ramifications have the effect of diminishing the rapidity of the circulation of the sap ; and thus it is that trees of a certain age are more productive than those which are young : for the sap has so many irregularly- disposed branches to supply, that it cannot well stimulate any single part and pass by the rest. ,A By cutting your leading branches very short for a number of seasons, as in the case of that absurd form now happily abandoned — the " pillar" or " quenouille " — the tree becomes fruitful, it is true, but at the expense of size, form, and beauty. ( In the case especially of standard trees, by peg- l ging down any too vigorous branch, it is com- / pletely checked, for the reasons stated previously ; BENDING DOWN BRANCHES. 15 but in this case the lateral shoots, becoming vertical, <*) have an extreme tendency to grow, and require i incessant pruning. This rule is applicable to > young growing trees, chiefly pears and apples ; but if applied to an older tree, and all the branches should be thus bent dowrfwards, then as soon as the tree becomes more fruitful, the branches should be loosened, and they will retain a sufficient inclination to obtain the required result. The ends would otherwise dry up, and the vertical shoots, absorbing all the sap, would become con- verted into wood-shoots of great vigour and diffi- cult to restrain. In some cases the tree would be exhausted by excess of production. One maxim more, and this part is ended. By removing the earth from the principal roots dur- ing the summer, so as to expose them to the air, the tree is much checked in its vigour. This shows the danger of growing crops too near to the roots, as, independently of the exhaustion of the soil thus induced, the risk of injury from the spade and removal of the surface is very great. For this very reason, transplanting an unfruitful tree often makes it bear well, when other methods have failed. 16 CORDON TRAINING. CHAP. IIL SEASONS FOR PLANTING AND PRUNING. /^* The season for planting is a busy, and it must be ( confessed, a somewhat harassing period. It is / "dig sine otio." The time which succeeds the ) first rest of the 6ap, that is, the early part of win- : ter, is the most suitable for the work in hand. If J neglected, then that period which immediately \ precedes the first movements of vegetation is the / best. As to young trees in the Orchard-house, anyx. time during winter will do for them. If they are ready to bear, of course, the less they are dis- turbed late in the season the better their chance of setting their crop will be. But then, these trees can be bought now ready potted, and thus a new house may be stocked at any time. If des- tined to continue in pots, when carefully packed, no injury is done to them, and if for plantation in the borders, they are equally ready, summer and winter, with ordinary care ; and therefore a tree ■PW*MV*WJ* PLANTING — HOW PEBFORMED. 17 established one or two years in a pot is ready for any use. For out-door planting, if not on too large a scale* trees thus potted are far the safest ; their roots are more established, and are infinitely more full ♦ of fibres, and the indispensable spongioles are not cut off in transplanting. This is the rule in the case of more valuable and delicate trees : pears, plums, and apples are easily managed. By hav- ing a portion of your trees in pots, you may be ready for your House if not already built, and time will thus be gained. You may house them* or leave them out of doors near some sunny spot, protecting the surface of the pots from drenching rains by a few slates. Some branches placed to windward, and a mat around them, will preserve any fruit tree from injury ; or it may so happen that a friend has a spare corner in his own Orchard- house, or a slight shed can be run up. All these are simple means and obvious resources, if the season for planting should come on. us before we are quite ready to undertake the whole at one single time. As to^^uj^oor^planting on a larger scale, a mild day witE^a gentle sun-heat is the most favourable time. Never plant the trees on a level with the surface soil, but let them be raised up above it in their own little mound, some four ( inches above the surface. By the end of the first / season the natural subsidence of the ground will bring them to their proper level. This is very * c 18 CORDON TRAINING. important to bear in mind, but is very seldom at- tended to, although it is ruinous to the tree to neglect this precaution. ,J^ ff The earth from the bottom of the pit. which should be ample and large, should be placed in one side of the hole, and that which came from the surface on the opposite side. Then when your tree is planted, the upper soil should be placed near the roots at the bottom, and the earth from the lowest part, mixed with some leaf-mould and sand, will serve well for the top. Place the tree on a gentle mound in the centre of the hole, lightly powder the earth over and between the central roots, but press down rather firmly the earth over the extremities of the roots, having first well spread them flatly in every direction. A stake to which the tree shall be firmly tied completes the operation, not, however, forgetting to have the name of the tree written on a label attached to it. Zinc, or wood painted, is best for labels. Avoid all stimulating manures in contact with the tender fibrous roots, adding only vegetable mould, and calcareous mat- ter with it. No tree should be planted in damp situations ; but if this be unavoidable, a drainage of four or six inches of stones, or oyster shells, will tend to remedy this. ^ There is some variety in the soils proper to [ the various kinds of fruit-trees. The p lujP j the / cherry, and theapricot, require an argilo-cal- VARIOUS SOILS. — MULCHING, u y^i careous soil. The situation should be rathe moist than dry, and they will do well where" there is no great depth of soil. It is useful to remember this ; because light soils, especially if at all sandy, are not adapted for peaches. These require a firm and rather unctuous loam, — deep, but permeable, — and they must have abundance of calcareous matter. In the case of wall trees, the borders should not be less than six feet broad, and should slope gently downwards, and be well drained. This is indispensable in the case of ( *'. peaches. These borders should never be cropped. No early potatoes should ever be allowed to encroach on the ground devoted to wall trees. Fork lightly up these borders, removing the ( weeds, but unless the soil be very heavy do not ) dig them up. Mulch the borders in July, but ' never before that month ; because the ground is » not warmed enough till that period to shade it { from the sun by mulching: but after that time j this operation is invaluable, as it checks evapora- ! tion and saves watering. In the late autumns lightly fork in this mulching, which will then( be quite friable. You may renew it in the sum- f mer, as occasion requires; indeed, the proper S time to nourish the tree is during growing and \ bearing season, and not when it should be at v rest, — that is, in the winter. In cold localities, however, mulching in winter has the advantage „ of protecting the surface roots from the frost > c 2 £r* 20 CORDON TRAINING. Thejsear also requires a good deep soil, but not retentive of moisture. Leaf mould (very old manure), but not near the roots : loam and sand together form an excellent compost. Moor earth near rivers must be well drained in heaps, and a little unslaked lime added to correct it. If the soil be too heavy in any case, powdered char* coal, or burnt earth, are the usual palliatives. The^aggle (which unfortunately is generally considered fit for any situation) prefers, on the contrary, a rather drier soil than the pear, and if in rather a gravelly spot, so much the better. Canker proceeds from neglect of this, a fertile source of discussion. The unwholesome sub-soil supplies vitiated food to the spongioles, and the sap thus corrupted breaks out at the weakest portion of the bark. Sometimes, however, the conjuncture of a sudden excess of pruning is the cause of this fatal disease, as it is of gum in other trees. Therefore, in weak trees, especially in the tender apricot, do not prune all the tree at one single timfc. On a due attention to the soil proper for each variety depends, in a very great i measure, the success of the whole matter. No expense or care bestowed in this way, nor atten- tion to these details, can ever be thrown away. s^ There is no doubt that pruning, during the summer months, is too much neglected. There are so many demands upon the precious hours at this period, that this indispensable act has not ( INJUDICIOUS PRUNING. 21 tiften its due attention ; then, when the winter surprises us, we are apt to find a huge, entangled, overgrown mass to unravel, demanding very much more labour and skill. This is a vicious custom with unskilful gardeners, because a severe use of the knife in the winter is to them the great resource and panacea for all evils. All their errors, they think, are thus obliterated until the next season's wood shall recommence. A tree severely cut back, and tightly nailed in, looks so very knowing, and argues bo much forethought. No matter the age or kind of tree, a smart semi- circle is described over its unhappy limbs, and branch after branch disappears "at one draw." The employer, meanwhile, looks on with amaze- ment and wonder. The growth, progress, and periods of repose required by Nature are highly suggestive to the thoughtful mind. The period of rest is now come, that of active labour ceases. All that was necessary to be done should have n ^ been accomplished before the stagg of repose. Some little supplementary work still remains, for plants, as well as animated beings, are never ab- solutely idle ; but the severer discipline applied to the tree should not be reserved for the winter pruning. During their stage of growth, super- abundantvigour is restrained and checked, b eca use at that eariy^ j»eriQdj^unds are not so difficult (Q tCLJieal, and the mere growth of the tree will ' soon cause them to disappear. A tree neglected c 3 ) J 22 CORDON TRAINING. during the summer will soon show signs of this forgetfulness. It will then be no proper remedy to use the pruning knife with energy. It is as in life : we can only hope with reason to turn aside the violence of a wrong bias at the outset. An even balance should be preserved ; no part of the whole system should run riot while the re- mainder unfairly languishes. Neither should j winter pruning ever take place during a frosty £ -'» ( season, for the knife lacerates the hardened wood and induces decay. To delay the pruning till the tree begins to feel the first movements of spring vegetatiQn is also pernicious, for then the check is too great. In the case of the peach, however, a mere beginner had better delay his pruning until he can fairly distinguish between a flower bud and a leaf bud. , . Should the number of trees be great, the proper / plan would be to commence with the apricots, i then the peaches ; after these the plums, the J I cherries and the pears, reserving the apples for 1 the last. A simple rule, but not generally \ known. It is best to have more than one pruning knife, for peach pruning demands a sharp pointed instrument. v To save time, a pair of strong pruning scissors is very convenient. With scissors the work is very rapidly done; there is nevertheless this dis* ^> PRUNING SCISSORS. 23 advantage in their use, that they must be kept very sharp, or the buds will be quite torn away. Besides, it is impossible to cut very near to the buds, so that at the winter pruning another clean cut must be made with a sharp knife nearer to the part selected. These cuts must always be made " at one draw " (as gardeners say), for the sake of appear- ance and that the wounds may heal more rapidly. 24 CORDON TRAINING. * / CHAP. IV* DEFECTS OP SOME METHODS OF FRUIT CULTURE. No doubt the climate of our country has many faults to answer for ; its severe spring frosts are indefensible ; its vicissitudes are highly reprehen- sible ; and as to its autumnal gales, which shake off the hopes of thfe season prior to their complete maturity, — if that period ever does occur, accord- ing to a noted French authority, — the least a patriot can say in their defence, the better for his truthfulness. But has the art of Horticulture nothing to answer for ? It is true we can point to noble f examples, such as Lindley, Rivers, Thompson, \ Knight, or Duhamel, Van Mous, and many /, others; but it is when gardening is practised by men of moderate incomes that we are astonished at its mediocre results. The chief reason is, that the lower class of hired gardeners is often igno- rant, prejudiced, and traditional in a wonderful degree. But so widely spread is the love of ■^■^^^^■^p^^ MANAGEMENT OF *HE CENTRE. 25 gardening, that very large sums are yearly spent even by persons of limited incomes, on their fruits and flowers. But the results are really disproportionate. How seldom is a well-kept garden to be seen* How seldom does the pro- prietor know the reason of his numerous failures. This little work is offered therefore in the simple hope of helping some such person who, having less leisure, cannot do as I have done, follow up my own trees, year after year, note* book in hand. My experience on this account cannot be valueless to him, and I have therefore freely given it. One grand defect which is observable in the general treatment of fruit trees is, that very little difference is made in the care bestowed on the various kinds. The dormant buds, which are the hopes of ensuing seasons, are treated on similar principles, the consequence of which is, that the centre of the tree is denuded of fruit, and an appearance of age is, by this means, induced, long before the tree has reached the period of decadence. As the sap ascends far more powerfully in the main channels than in the more distant and feebler, portions, one would suppose that this would be a guiding principle in the treatment of the whole tree. But, instead of this, what do we generally see ? In a few years, by unskilful pruning, the whole of the centre of the wall-trees and the 26 CORDON TRAINING. interior parts of standards, are without fruit. It now abounds at the extremities of the branches ; and, year after year, retires further and further from the centre of all. Large bare spaces are visible on every tree. Invaluable south walls are profitless ; and there is no remedy but to cut back the unhappy tree. But, independently of the disfigurement of the garden wall, and the serious loss of time, this cutting back is an absurd and unnecessary plan. In the case of the peach, it hardly ever succeeds at all; especially if done in the winter, as is generally the case. Any method which should obviate this precessity must be useful, and, un- doubtedly €e Cordon training v does this, as will be shown. By keeping close to the centre of our work, instead of wearing out the whole, we refresh and stimulate incessantly the latent energies of the tree, because we seek for them in their chief source, where nature has placed them — the main stem. On the contrary, it is evident that an irregular excitation of particular and distant portions, while the remaining (and far more important parts) are left languishing and inert, must end in confusion, inferiority of production, and diminution of the flavour of fruit. As to the tree itself; it cannot fail to decay in some place or other, and be finally condemned as a disfigure- ment to the garden. DURATION OP THE PEACH AND PEAB. 27 Another radical defect in fruit culture is the C*^ vicious custom of too rapidly inclining the bear- / ing branches toward the horizontal line. By J this plan the lowest stage must inevitably be- come the shortest and the most feeble, while, by all the rules of harmony, it should be the longest. This defect once commenced is fatal and irre- mediable, and some of the best portions of the wall and tree axe lost for ever. Many trees are trained fan-wise, and this, with proper precautions, is suitable only for strong growing varieties, and for those which, like the pear, are of long#duration. But, on the authority of M. Dubreuil, even\ r^et. the pear re quires abou t sixteen years .. £ft .Xfiach to ( the top of a n prdmp^y .wall^adn^ git y of a proper l ateral extension. On the same/ authority, it is certain that the life of the peach \ is not valuable after twenty years, and if half of/ that period, at least, be spent in raising it to the summit, it is evident that it only arrives there when on the point of diminishing in production. During the time, therefore, that these trees, and others also, are reaching to the utmost limits assigned to them, the valuable wall space is un- occupied and useless. This very serious defect has led to the intro-) .duction of th$ " cordon system/* by which the( space of time required to cover a given superficies ; is abridged by two-thirds. As life is too precious j 28 CORDON TRAINING. to be wasted, and we naturally look for speedy returns for all the care and money which we bestow, if this system can really shorten the period of fructification, without corresponding disadvantages, it would be very proper to adopt it in preference to older methods, especially as it is adapted for all purposes required, and for all varieties cultivated. 29 CHAP. V. CORDON TRAINING — ITS ADVANTAGES AND USES. Cordon training derives its name from its fanciful resemblance to a cord or chain. A certain number of leading branches are carried out, and on them spurs are developed, so that the branches look somewhat like twisted cables or chains. It is not an entirely new plan, but has the advantage of being based on well-known and valuable methods long in use. In the present) case its value chiefly consists in its combinations/, and modifications required by the peculiar cha-{ racter of the climate of England. In the casei of in-door culture much more novelty was ad-( missible, because in this instance the dry and/ equable temperature aided powerfully in its suc-\ cess. Objections made to cordon training in the' open air, which, however, are not based on ex- perience, being generally made by persons who have never even seen the trees during one season, in orchard-houses, fall at once to the ground. 30 CORDON TBAINING. But for an amateur to take up cordon training and to endeavour to practise it, irrespective of the exigencies of our rainy skies, and to expect results attainable in other dry and sunny locali- ties, is simply absurd. I have myself carefully studied the system, and followed it out on a fair scale for some years, both in the open air and in the orchard-house. While, therefore, convinced of its value, I trust it will not be considered presumptuous in me to say, that I believe that an important portion of this peculiar system would prove a total failure unless it were carried out exactly as described in these pages. But as it is so simple that any one can understand its rules, there can be no reason why mistakes should occur, nor is the manual labour so great as to prevent even ladies from !r undertaking it. I offer my suggestions to amateurs ( with a certain confidence, since I have tried and / rejected most of the systems which are, at this \day, considered excellent in France. One form was quite unsuitable to the extreme dampness of our climate, which induces a too luxuriant growth in the autumn ; while the want of proportionate sun-heat renders it impossible to have well-ripened wood 9 — and without this, what tree will ever bear? Another form, more adapted to meet these difficulties, was far too complicated in its system of dis-budding,— which, by the bye, is a plan SUMMER PINCHING. 31 requiring much caution in its adoption, and is not very necessary at any time. It is true this last system produced a fair crop of fruit, but it required too much attention to make it generally valuable. Proceeding, therefore, on a new mode, which arose out of the cordon system itself, I gradually adopted it, and, after I two years' trial of this new combination, I do not hesitate to recommend it as the best which exists at the present day. A large and important J portion of this system — the management of the ( spurs and the growths on them — is very similar / to that recommended by Mr. Rivers, in the ) t^-^ chapter on " Summer Pinching." Some of the ' terms .used in horticulture are so droll as to excite wonder at their use, but it would cause confusion to endeavour to introduce any new ones. But certainly "pinching spurs in the summer" seems no particular recommendation in gardening. . As was said before, cordon training has the Jfc^ immense advantage of being simple. There is no elaborate tying-in of summer shoots, as old as Shakspeare : " Tie up those dangling apricocks ;" indeed few. ties are required even in the winter. The forerights are preserved, which are of much value in increasing the amount of fruit. The spurs are compactly and regularly distributed, and are thus more easily sheltered from the weather, and more readily examined and pruned. 32 CORDON TRAINING. /No long straggling shoots are ever seen. The ' supply of new wood of the proper bearing age, and the regular distribution of the leaves, en- sures a succession of crops. The fruit is all produced close to the main stems. All parts of the tree have a fair chance. The produce is doubled, since half of the intervals between the branches is only required. Twelve inches are sufficient for the parts where 18 or 24 inches were formerly required. The trees are as readily detached from the walls to clean them, as vines are from the wires, and from their simple forms no injury can happen to any \ portion. The trees are only lightly secured to / the rods (which are safer, after all, than gal- vanised wires), and it is easy to clear off cobwebs and insects from the back of the trees, an ad- vantage of incalculable value, as the gardener ■ well knows. All these, and others, are the re- 7 suits of cordon training. / But one of the chief recommendations of the \ system is the rapidity with which a high wall is / clothed with productive spurs. In four years a \ wall, twelve to fifteen feet high, can be covered ) with fruit-bearing wood, all disposed in regular, 1 beautiful, and harmonious succession. ,.x This will be obvious by a reference to the Frontispiece, where the different years are indi- cated by their progress; and as a tree, planted at the angles shown, must grow fast, and yet be VARIOUS CORDONS. 33 fruitful, what can be desired more ? What is shown in the Frontispiece is a representation of one kind of Cordon, and that the very best, — < the " diagonal,"— with three leaders on each tree. The trees are planted in the ground at thirty-six inches from their neighbours to right and left, there being thus twelve inches of interval between d each leader. In France the single cordon, with laterals of fourteen inches, succeeds well, but it would fail in England. The double cordon is. better adapted ; these two forms clothe a wall with( amazing rapidity, and if suited for our climate would supersede all others. The triple cordon I have never seen but in my own gardens ; with laterals in the old system it would not advance fast enough, which is one important condition in its use. A quadruple cordon would take so much time to complete as to make it less desir- able ; it might, however, suit very moist localities better. With spurs, as now recommended, the triple cordon unites most of the conditions re- quired for success. It covers the wall rapidly, and bears well and regularly : nothing better can be said in its favour. Its form is also so regu- larly beautiful, that even casual observers must be struck with the harmony and grace of the whole tree. No gentleman likes to have his valuable walls covered with trees as unproductive as they are ungainly ; but any one who has seen 34 CORDON TRAINING. a well-managed cordon on the diagonal plan,] will not fail to give it the palm as to beauty. , .^ / By means of light guiding rods the young wood creeps as straight as a walking stick, up- wards, and on this depends much of the handsome appearance of the trees. So that were a wall of these trees drawn, each of them ascending with . mathematical regularity, it would not be exaggerated: a moderate amount of skill and ^ patience would easily effect it. The various C forms of cordon training remain to be noticed. / They are the diagonal, the best suited for a wall ; J for in-door or out-door culture it should always n have three leaders. The vertical, useful for trees / trained against the pillars of the Orchard-house, where they bear admirably; they also answer well if planted in the borders. If for walls in ^ the open air, then the number of leaders should \ not be less than five, or there would be danger / of the trees producing too much wood. The ^ spiral : round wires for trees in pots, or round the pillars of the orchard-house, where they have a pretty effect. It will also suit large pear stan- dards in the open ground, or in the borders of the house. Lastly, the horizontal — i.e. all fan- shaped, (palmette of the French,) or laterally developed trees ; all standard trees in the open ground or within the house, and planted in the borders. 35 CHAR VI. CORDON TRAINING IN PEACH TREES. — THE DIAGONAL CORDON. " If any one tree has occupied the attention of cultivators more than another, it is surely the peach." So says the editor of the Gardener's Chronicle ; and so many have done so, that it may almost be asked if the matter be not exhausted. . The article from which this is quoted ,. proceeds to lay down t hree conffitiofl p as T^ces- / sarv to -imqggfl m pfiftfih JPlltJitf j which is whatv we are now considering. The first indispensable / condition for success is, that the soil must be well drained; and secondly, that the wood must ripen thoroughly ; and thirdly, that as the wood of the first and third year produces no fruit, it must be / looked for only on the wood of the second year. } I hope to be able to show satisfactorily that these requisites can best be obtained by cordon train- ing, combined with attention to other important particulars. The peach, like the pear, is a standard of A D 2 ' while an a ccumula tion of these fluids produces J flower buds. In a leaf-bud the leaves are highly ( developed, and their axis has a tendency to elongate as soon as stimulated by heat and light. In a \ flower-bud the leaves are in an imperfect state, / (which is called calyx, corolla, stamens and pistil) ) and the axis has no tendency to elongate* Hence \ a flower-bud is a contracted branch. It is, there- fore, easy to be seen that so long as the fluids of v a tree circulate rapidly, and without interruption, only leaf-buds (i.e. undeveloped branches) can be formed. But if the motion of the fluids be Ian- ( guid, and the parts are formed slowly, flower-buds, ' which are contracted by nature, and have no dis- j position to elongate, only will appear." *s For these reasons, most sound as they are, the /_.. Diagonal Cordon, which is now to be described, \ appears the best adapted to unite the conditions s of fertility with due attention to the necessity of extension. In other words, this Cordon grows \ and bears well. As will be seen, the term " Dia- gonal " means leaders — one or more, but generally three — trained against walls at an angle of 65 degrees during the first year, and at an angle of 45 degrees during the succeeding years. The reason why the trees are first planted at the angle of 65 degrees, is that otherwise the shoots on the upper side would grow faster than those on the lower, and that they would injuriously D4 40 CORDON TRAINING. compete (by their vertical position), with the growth of the leading extremities, the growth of which it is sought by all means to encourage. The position of 45 degrees, to which it is inclined as soon as the leading shoot has obtained the proper pre-eminence and strength, and is thus able to defend its rights — the position of 45 degrees is the most favourable to obtain fruit and £'h J wo °d above all inclinations at which any fruit tree can be placed. Therefore, as soon as the leader is strong and vigorous enough, the tree should be lowered to this angle, and, by means of light guiding rods, be made to ascend, at this angle, to the top of the wall. From being tied lightly, at every two or three inches, to the rod, it must grow perfectly straight. The trees are planted at intervals of 36 inches from stem to stem along the wall, as seen in the Frontispiece, where they are all at the angle of 45 degrees, even the tree only in the first year ; but this was unavoidable ; that is, the trees are laid in at 3 feet from each other only. My own trees are planted and trained at 30 inches of interval, but this is too little — 36 inches are preferable. Each tree, in the Frontispiece, is represented as having either three leaders fully grown, or in the case of the tree of the first year, it has dotted lines indicating the future position of the other two leaders. In the tree of the second year, the second leader has ascended half- WALL OF COBDONS. 41 way up, while the first leader is completed. In the case of the tree of the third year, the first and second leaders being completed, the third leader is now half-way up. The two trees of the fourth year have all three leaders complete, and the complementary tree which fills up the corner is shown as having its leaders fully deve- loped. The extreme corner is completed as seen by extra short leaders, and in the first year's tree the corresponding corner is indicated to be filled in by an upright leader with short side branches, so as to cover the whole space. This filling up of corners cannot be done so well with trees on the common method. Of course, in the first year, all the trees, if planted simultaneously, would all be alike, having one leader and blank spaces for the two future ones, and in the second year the whole wall would look like the tree of that year ; and so on. But at one glance the different years can be seen and understood. I must add, that if the trees shall be planted at 36 inches from each other, the intervals between the leaders will of course be 12 inches, *t. e. the shoots on each leader extend 6 inches either way. Forerights are also preserved (not represented, to avoid confusion) ; but this is a very important part of the system, and adds much to the beauty of the whole, making each leader like a green cable having blooming fruit embedded in appropriate 42 CORDON TRAINING. bowers of leaves; not buried, but visible and well exposed to the sun's rays. I do not remember seeing any trees trained exactly in this fashion, and as to the combination of culture, under glass, with the great advan- tages to be gained by this particular Cordon, it is this which has chiefly induced me to publish the results at all. By this excellent, but too little known method, the most splendid crops can be grown, and it is not too much to anti- cipate the time when every back wall of an Orchard-house, or of a forcing Nectarine-house, will have its Diagonal Cordon on three leaders. One will not do ; . two are only rather better, but with three success is certain. More than three would take too long a period to cover the wall, by extending the four years necessary with three leaders, to five or six years, in which case little time is saved. Neither can a Cordon on other principles than closely spurring-in be very suc- cessful. At any rate it is far inferior in every way and unworthy of competing with the one now described, especially in the quantity of fruit obtained. I can cordially recommend this kind of Cordon to amateurs, having had the greatest success with it of any. It will not suit span-roofed Houses, which have, of course, no back walls. But lean-to houses are far warmer. Perhaps a union of the two would be useful. Span- FORMATION OF DIAGONAL CORDON. 43 roofed houses are handsomer, and, when very large, extremely beautiful. In this case other kinds of Cordons are more suitable, such as vertical, with pyramidal bases, which will be described presently. The formation of a Diagonal CoYdon with three leaders is thus commenced. Straight, well-grown trees, one year old from the graft, are selected. These trees are planted in the open ground in October, November, or Decem- ber, but the earlier the better, and in the Orchard-house, at any time during the winter, except in frosty weather. They are laid at an angle of 65 degrees against the wall, in either case at an interval of 36 inches from one another. One third of the top of each tree may be removed; but there is no objection to the whole row being cut to an equal height, unless in the case of particular trees. A healthy front bud is chosen, in every case, to cut down to; therefore when I said equalise them, of course it is far better to regulate their height by the bud you cut down to ; because you must have a healthy leaf-bud, and below it must be no blank spaces where there can be no shoots. If blank spaces occur, then reject that tree or it will cause you trouble ; but if you choose to retain it, either because of the sort, or be- cause you fancy it, then cut down well to a good bud, no matter how high or how low you 44 CORDOK TRAINING. meet it. It must be in front, because the wound is thus far less difficult to hide. This is of great importance in Cordon training. If you must cut to a side bud, then you have no very straight stem after all the care bestowed on the rest. There must be no unhealthy wood near the leading bud. How often, by neglecting thia simple rule, has the trouble of years been wasted 1 Cut, sloping upwards at a gentle angle, till you get to about an eighth of an inch above the bud. The trees are then well tied to the wall ; the young laterals are brought forward on either side neatly, and the back shoots are generally cut in to one or two buds ; for if you cut them off there will be no reserve to supply accident. Sharply cut back these slender laterals to two eyes or buds. At this stage these are small, therefore be in no hurry to cut them off. Then the forerights are to be similarly treated, i.e. cut back to two buds, and the trees are ready. If the wall has wires or rails, these must be at 12 inches of interval. Then a light guiding rod is tied above the end of the leading branch in order to direct the future young wood. Prepare and place this at the winter ar- rangements. Water freely for some weeks. No wall under 11 or 12 feet high is eligible for Cordon training. If in the open ground it should have a good coping of one or two feet to ward off the drenching rains. If, as was said before, you do not immediately require the trees, or have not COLOUR OP WALLS. 45 your wall or house quite ready, then pot the trees till that period, and no time is lost ; at any rate, a reserve of some half-dozen should always be kept thus potted in case of any accident or other- wise. Thus, if one of your treesbecome unsightly or deformed, or refuse to progress, then remove it without delay, and place one of your potted trees (the most vigorous) in its place. This the amateur must particularly attend to in Cordon training. Trees one year old are cheap, and so are pots, and there is no excuse for not having a reserve ready trained on the same system to supply vacant spaces. With respect to the colour of walls for Orchard- houses (lean-to's), white is preferable to black, though the latter has certain advantages, but which are most attainable out of doors : 1 mean with respect to radiation, but white is certainly preferable for Cordon training, as so much of the wall is covered with leaves that no burning can take place. A coat of lime- wash is invaluable on account of that " rubra cura" — the red spider, which is the pest of peach-houses, and requires to be kept down by regular syringing and ventilation. The white colour adds also very much to the ap- pearance of a house, and if a dash of rose or pink be added, the effect is considerably heightened. Then with pillars of a clear blue, and ruddy gravel walks between the well-kept borders, the whole 46 GORDON TRAINING. may be as ornamental as any conservatory ; and there is no reason why a little gilding should not be shown on the cornices, &c. especially as the house should be devoted to chrysanthemums in the autumn. To return to the plantation of the row of young trees on the Diagonal plan. A little watering as needed is the completion of the first year's work. In the spring of the ensuing season, the two eyes or buds to which the laterals have been cut will generally each produce a shoot. If we call these two shoots, on which the future work will be done, the "right and the left shoot,"* and the original first growth a " spur," it may tend to simplify the matter. These two shoots are, then, the " second growth * on these " spurs." As soon, therefore, as these second growths have made six leaves — any small leaves at the bases which have no buds in their axils, do not count — pinch down to two leaves on the upper side of the tree, and to three leaves on the lower side. The reason for this difference is found in the more vertical position of the upper shoots, and there- fore in their greater tendency to elongate. As to the lower-side shoots, they, from their position, will be only too inclined to become covered with fruit-buds, and in their case we must look for ob- taining some leaf-buds also. To repeat : these second growths (i.e. the right and left shoots) having reached 6 leaves or 4 GROWTHS ON THE SPURS. 47 inches, must be pinched back — if on the upper side of the Diagonal leaders, to two leaves, and if on the lower side thereof, to three leaves. In a short time each of these leaves left will put forth another stage of young shoots, springing from the axils of the leaves. This is the " third growth." As soon as this " third growth " on either side has reached three leaves, pinch back all to two leaves. A "fourth growth" must be closely pinched in to one leaf, and if anything more grows, pinch it closely in also. These third and fourth growths would be bearers of buds, able, in ordi- nary seasons, to bear the next year, as well as the buds on the second growth ; but in practice, the object being to keep the spurs and the growths on them within six inches, these late growths must be held in the light of " feeders " to the others, just as two eyes are left beyond a bunch of grapes to draw the sap to the fruit. These successive growths in the summer pinchings may exceed the six inches by an inch or two in some cases, espe- cially in forerights, while they may only reach to five inches in other cases ; nevertheless, the rule is to keep them, as near as possible, at this extension. In. the winter pruning they will be shortened in alternately, as will be described. At the risk of tedious repetition, I must refer again to the Frontispiece. The tree in the right-hand corner (marked 1st year) will represent the appearance of the whole 48 CORDON TRAINING. of the row of trees at the end of the first year's training. This is the second year of plantation. The tree with its single leader A will have reached more or less to half-way, or two thirds of the wall, supposing this to be 12 feet high. A certain portion of the tree (that of last year to which it was cut back,) will now appear clothed with wood. The spurs on either side of the leader A will each have their two shoots pinched back successively to, say, 6 inches in all. The foreright spurs and shoots on them are also to be treated by pinching them as if they were on the upper side of the leader ; but they are not shown in this diagram, to avoid confusion. At the base of the single leader A, and at 12 inches from the sur- face, a strong shoot from one of the spurs has been allowed to extend for 12 inches laterally, so as to be in readiness to form the second leader B when required ; but if allowed to extend, and to be turned up when it reaches the 12 inches (which it is destined to do), so as to form the second leader B, then it would injuriously affect the growth of the first leader A. From this rule no deviation must be permitted. I have spoilt too many trees from impatience, not to warn others against this error. Cut this lateral back in winter to a healthy bud, and guide it by a light rod perfectly at right angles to the leader A. The tree which is now being described does not show this lateral, because it is in the WINTER PRUNING. 49 corner, but the second year's tree will show what here is meant. The dotted lines indicate the position of all future leaders, and thus E E ex- plains how (in the case of the corner tree only) a future vertical leader in the direction E E will ascend, and future diagonal leaders be de- veloped from this, the only vertical one, as marked F F. Winter Pruning. — Let us suppose thatwhen the leaves drop oiF from the trees there will appear two shoots on each spur, each shoot composed of the . various growths of this season. Now the fruit will only appear on the wood of the second year. In this case the fruit buds nearest to the spurs them- selves are on this wood, and the fruit will appear at the base of the spurs, and only in some cases at their top. Of course the trees are very young to bear, but they will do so in many cases, and if this occur, then only one or two peaches must be allowed to remain on each tree. By the close spurring-in practised during the summer, and the not having had recourse to the old and ridiculous method of choosing long weak shoots for the bearing wood, the buds at the base of the spurs will generally become fruitful. All the fruit, if any, will appear on the bearing wood at the base. The young tender laterals on the young extremity of the leader, which has ascended some way upwards, must be pinched down to two buds previously to this period. £ 50 CORDON TRAINING. The two shoots on each spur must now be shortened in. One must be left long for fruit (if possible), and the other must be cut short to furnish new wood to bear alternately. The long shoot must be cut to any triple bud you can find within the six inches prescribed. If you find no triple bud on either shoot for bearing, then cut them both back alike to the two leaf-buds nearest to the spur. But if, as is generally the case, you find the triple bud desired, leave this shoot long, and cut the other to two leaf-buds, to furnish two new bearing wood shoots for the year after next. If you find a triple bud to cut down to in the case of the shorter shoot, this is an ad- ditional advantage, as it is fruitful, and you have a double chance of peaches. But the whole system revolves on these two shoots, which in time become three or four, — one of them being left long to bear, and the other being cut short to succeed it. In this way a succession of fruit- ful wood is sure to be obtained, while on the old method, when once a shoot had borne, it was slightly shortened in, and permitted to bear on the new growth ; so that in time the fruit was produced so far from the centre, that a severe pruning, most injurious to the peach, was needed. The shoots on the spurs multiply in time, and are cut back, or left long, as required. Every suc- cessive pruning must have for its object to keep the bearing wood close and compact, and allow SECOND YEAR'S TRAINING. 51 on the long shoots left for fruit just enough of leaves to nourish the fruit. Two shoots for each spur are required. If any spur have not the necessary two shoots on it, then it is a vast defect, and must be remedied by pinching back judiciously at first, and by endeavouring to encourage the single shoot to become double; of course the nearer to the spur the better. In this case all our en- deavours must be directed to obtain the two shoots, quite irrespective of fruit, and at this winter's pruning, if there be but that melancholy single shoot, then vigorously cut in to two leaf- buds, — not the fruit-buds, — for if you do the spur is ruined for ever. However, even then the whole tree is not spoilt, for there are so many spurs, and so many shoots, that a remedy can always be found. A practised eye will see the difference between a fruit and a leaf-bud almost at once — certainly by midsummer ; while a mere beginner would be puzzled to decide till the ensuing spring. Second Year's Training. — We come now to the tree in the Frontispiece marked "second year." The first leader A will rapidly ascend and reach the top of the wall, and the lateral left to form the second leader B, having also shot out, is turned up sharply, when it has reached twelve inches from its starting place. It will, in the course of this year, reach to about half-way E 2 52 CORDON TRAINING. towards the summit of the wall, as seen. As soon as the first leader A has reached the top, pinch off the end; this will strengthen the second leader. The second leader will be shortened a little at the winter pruning, as the case may be, always remembering to cut to a front bud. The pinching of the various growths on the two shoots goes on thus this year. That on the longer shoot must be pinched in more closely than that on the shorter one, because it would extend too far otherwise. It may reach to seven inches without any confusion, and if a foreright, and in the Orchard-house, it will even be better so. Thus the new wood on the long shoot may well be pinched off to one leaf as soon as three leaves are formed, and the next time also to one leaf, as soon as two leaves are formed ; and so on. But the shoot or shoots shortened to two buds will require to be allowed to grow by a leaf more at a time. Thus, as soon as four leaves are formed, pinch back to two leaves, and afterwards to one leaf. All this will be readily understood after a season's practice. Of course those natural shoots which make their terminal buds — and are called by the French " rameaux a fruit bouquets," because they appear like a small nosegay, — should not be touched wherever they appear They will soon be known, and generally spring from the bases of the spurs. See Fig. 1, of fruit- Fig. 1. FRUIT-SPUR ON THE PEACH, SHOWING THE SUCCESSIVE GROWTHS, AXD ALTERNATE PRUNING. w .->"' / FIGURE 1 EXPLAINED. 53 spurs on the peach, where it is seen springing from the base of the spur, and is marked E. The present winter's pruning of these two shoots now- requires notice. Taking Figs. 1 and 2 of peach spurs, — A indicates the original spur; B the right shoot ; C the left shoot ; D the right shoot which has developed another one, and E the natural fruit-spur. Figure 1. — Here, on the spur A, the right shoot has grown by successive starts (as seen by the divisions) upwards. The little elbow above B is that part of the shoot which was left beyond the last bud pinched down to, and often dries up rapidly. Two triple buds appear on the second growth, which are to be carefully left. They will be found in Figure 2, as deve- loped into two new shoots marked there B and D. But at present the shoot is to be cut back to them, and failing them, to two leaf-buds for wood shoots. Never cut, by any means, to single flower-buds, because there should always be a leaf-bud at the extremity of every part, no matter where or of what strength. In a triple bud the central one is a leaf-bud, and the other two flower-buds, and thus it unites every necessary qualification. The left shoot in Fig. 1 is also seen. The second growth has, or may not have, its two triple buds; most likely it will, because that is the place to look for them, and pinching-in helps: E 3 54 CORDON TRAINING. much to this important end. Then, higher up, appear the third and the fourth growths, the for- mer having a neat little lateral, which is far more likely to be fruitful than a powerful shoot. These latter shoots, called " gourmands" by the French, were the bane of the old systems, and do what you would, if on the upper side they always would come. In vain they were cut back; in vain they were twisted and pinched off; the least neglect produced a vigorous shoot, like a leading branch, just where it should not be. Of course the sap rushed with tenfold violence into these enticing corners, and of course the gardener did not see it, and then, by the winter, the rest of the branch was languid and feeble, and the tree spoilt. But in this system all this is ren- dered nugatory ; there is little or no danger of this occurring. Instead of this giant, we see a neat little fruitful shoot, which, crowned with an appropriate bud, is very like a natural fruit-spur. Leave these alone, and cut down close to them, as seen in Fig. 1. The branch is then, with its short right shoot, ready for wood-bearing or not, as the case requires, and its long left shoot cut for fruit, having a chance thereof at the two triple buds, on the second growth, and ori the neat little lateral before so commended. As the nearer wood is the ripest, if the fruit appear on the triple buds below, so much the better ; at any rate there are plenty of chances, because Fig. 2. FRUIT-SPURS ON THE PEACH. — ALTERNATE PRUNING. SECOND APPEARANCE. FIGUEE 2 EXPLAINED. 55 this little lateral, though born, say in August, will probably be quite ripe — at any rate it will be in the Orchard-house. In Fig. 2 we have the same spur A, and on it the same second growth B and C, only B has developed into two long shoots, and these have been successively treated as recommended. In the winter the new development D is cut back to two new buds, generally triple, and its fellow left long for fruit, of which there must be a great chance somewhere or other. You can hardly fail now. The left shoot C has borne a peach or nectarine, where the triangle near C indicates its place. After bearing it is cut back, so as to secure new wood. In succeeding years, by the time the wall is covered, say in four years, all the leaders should have their spurs crowded with these long and short shoots, two, three, and four to each ; and as I said before, remembering to have a leaf-Jwc? at every extremity, and to keep half short for wood, and half long for fruit, how can any one fail to have fruitful trees ? This is all the care required for the spurs and growths on them, remember- ing that if the long shoots in summer, from their very length, grow to seven or eight inches long, they have always the corresponding short shoots on the opposite leaders ; and as these may not extend beyond some five inches, one will fit into the other. At any rate it is of no matter, for after E 4 56 CORDON TRAINING. this experience a man must be dull indeed who could not manage to get his wood compact and short somewhere. There is no danger of not having superabundant shoots of all kinds, and you can cut them clean out of the spur when- ever you like ; besides, they may have grown into two shoots, as many do, immediately from the leader itself, and then you have abundance of room. Let my readers be assured of all this, and practise it fearlessly : " cut boldly and fear not." As Mr. Rivers says of potted trees; " Any one can manage them ; " and I daresay any lady could manage a Diagonal Cordon easily and successfully after reading these in- structions. As to the getting the third leader to grow, it is now easily seen ; and when the three leaders are fully grown, all that is required is to allow a foot or two of the extremities, as in vines, to grow upwards, and then to bend them down- wards gradually, and cut them off in the au- tumn. This exhausts the superfluous sap, and keeps the upper shoots fruitful. Nevertheless, I must beg to say that it is the lower shoots that are likely to languish first, and there- fore they must not be too rigorously pinched in, but rather favoured, and rested from time to time. The finest fruit will be near the top, which proves the abundance of the sap and juices at that part. PRODUCE OF SOME CORDONS. 57 A Belle Beauce peach in my own Orchard- house bore thirty- two fine peaches on the leaders A and B, but of course the top of A was not very ripe, and half of B was quite youthful. Keine des Vergers, which bore early in August, had twenty splendid peaches, all on the lower part of A, it being in the second year. Galande had twenty-eight on a similar part, in spite of the backward season, and the nectarines Early New- ington and Hardwicke Seedling (a delicious nec- tarine), were also very fruitful on this leader A. Malta, Chancellor, Bourdine, and Pucelle de Malines were magnificent, though very young trees. I like Malta by far the best : Noisette calls it his favourite. Leroy, Rivers, and many others speak highly of it ; and, being not too vigorous, let me seriously recommend it. It is a September peach, and the one that hangs so well on a tree : no mean quality. Nectarines, however, and clingstones (Pavie peaches), which come late, and will find their day of triumph in England before long y are best suited for the back wall, because they are the most valuable. So prolific is this plan, that I would not recommend the mid-season peaches for it ; you can have them in the pots. A very early peach, but not the little nutmeg peaches, should be placed in a warm corner, and trained in this way. Acton Scott is scarcely good enough. Early York or Crauford is better, or some of the 58 CORDON TRAINING. new American varieties, which before long will be our very best early peaches. Stanwick nectarines crack, but they have done tolerably well with me this unlucky year. They are really splendid, though they generally require forcing. I only repeat, to end this chapter : keep to the wood of the second year ; and as every shoot which has borne fruit will not again bear, it is well to cut off the shoot which has given fruit as soon as it has done so. This is better for the practised hand to do than for a mere beginner, and should not be done in the early stages of cultivation. 59 CHAP. VII. SPIRAL CORDONS. The training these is essentially the same as that of Diagonal cordons, because they also have an upper or vigorous side, and a lower or weak side. If planted in the borders of the Orchard-house, and trained round wires, they have an admirable appearance. Twelve inches of interval is also required between the ascending stems, and not less than two trees should be planted to train on the same wires. These Spiral Cordons bear remarkably well, and for pot culture are unrivalled. The sun and air have free access to the open centre ; the leaders are kept down, and the spurs on them, with due respect to the outrageous verticals, are easily managed. They should, in the case of pots, be pinched in more closely, as it is difficult then to allow a clear twelve inches of interval. The outgrowing shoots are, of course, not in- cluded in this difficulty. Wires are best to train round. When the leaders are fully covered, and your space well filled in, then lower the leaders, 60 CORDON TRAINING. and twist them freely round the wires. If in pots, place them close to the glass, but not so as to shade others behind them. If for pear trees, in the open ground, very handsome specimens may be obtained, and really fruitful, only the centre must be kept well open. They are very easy to syringe in the Orchard-house, as access is easy to the interior parts. I do not think that trees difficult to fruit would do, as some parts are rather in the shade. The free-growing varieties should be selected in preference. 61 CHAP. VIIL VERTICAL CORDONS. Select a straight tree, as before, well furnished with laterals ; remove one third of the top, and cut in the laterals to two buds. Should any weakness appear in the lower laterals, cut down to one half of the whole length, because the lowest stage must be the longest, and it must be encouraged. Plant in a pot, or in the open ground, or border, as before. In the ensuing summer the two buds on each lateral will develop ; these must all be pinched as soon as six leaves long, to three leaves, then to two leaves, and then to one leaf; but in the lowest stages it is necessary to allow one leaf more at each pinching, until that part has a predominance over the rest ; in other words, until it has a pyramidal form. Therefore, the lowest spurs all round should be well encouraged, and if disposed to become fruit- ful, then left as long as possible — i.e. hardly pinched at all, and the whole tree kept to the pyramidal form altogether. If the lowest shoots 62 CORDON TRAINING. grow freely so much the better; merely pinch them back, according to their vigour, and if laterals grow on these, pinch these to two buds each. The object in view is to obtain a fruitful pyramid in a vertical position, and the pinching is only to obtain this ; but as the top grows very freely, it must also be kept under, and occasionally pinched back, according to the vigour of the tree. In this case the amateur will soon know how to proceed. If the Vertical Cordon, however, be destined as a reserve for banks in the Diagonal Cordons (and this must be kept in view), then pinch all the shoots pretty equally; but if the lower ones are inclined to become single shoots, then this must not be allowed to be. Endeavour to have these reserve trees regularly supplied with spurs, and two shoots on each; and if a tree obstinately refuse to come to this shape, it had better be rejected as time and patience wasted. The vertical pyramids must not exceed the diameter of the pot they are to fill (generally a thirteen-inch pot), at their base. If you plant the Vertical Cordon against pil- lars in the Orchard-house, it need not be pyra- midal of course, and this is another use for the potted vertical cordons to supply. Against pillars, with their ends trained up the rafters or sideways, my own trees are splendid, and they are an amusing variety, because you may develop a second stem before and another behind each pillar, VERTICAL CORDONS. 63 and the fruit on the part near the glass will be very fine. These trees will require removal, probably annually, as they grow, to check undue luxuriance. A few ties are all that is required, and they are easy to syringe and take care of in every way. No strong growing variety should be planted either in pots or against pillars in the borders. Out of doors Vertical Cordons require very high walls ; they are then useful, bijt unless they have a large number of upright leaders they are apt to grow too freely ; and for peaches, there is really no necessity for adopting this form in out-door culture. 64 CORDON TRAINING, CHAP. IX. HORIZONTAL CORDONS. • Under this head, for practical purposes in Cordon training, may be ranged all fan-shaped or " pal- mette " trees on walls ; all standard out of doors ; and bush trees in pots. Every one knows how to commence the training of these, — how twelve inches are to be left above the soil, and how fan- shaped trees are to be thence carried out. In the case of wall trees, light rods should always guide the young branches, and these should never be brought toward the horizontal line, till well esta- blished, otherwise, adieu to the symmetry of the tree, — the lowest stage being too short. But if these trees are trained horizontally, then let the branches be depressed year by year from an angle of 75 to 65 degrees, then 45, and lastly to about 30 degrees. Any approach to the perfect hori- zontal line is useless, except in the case of two small branches developed from the lowest stage to fill up the lower corners. The Cordon system is equally applicable here, — i.e. that part of it . OLD METHOD. 65 which relates to the management of the spurs and shoots. As we are now treating of peach trees, of course the upper shoots must be trained like those on the upper sides of the Diagonal leaders, and the lower shoots like those on the lower side of these leaders. The branches to be shortened by one-third yearly, and when older, by one- fourth, and finally by one-sixth of their length ; the main stem encouraged fairly to grow. An interval of twelve inches is sufficient between, each stage of branches, while, in old methods, eighteen or twenty were needed for the enormous shoots to bear their solitary peach. Of course the crop in fruit ought to be doubled, and would be but for fear of sacrificing the tree. But how long time it takes to reach the top of a ten or twelve-foot wall we all know well enough, and when there, the tree is beginning to decay. A system valueless for such splendid fruit For pear trees, which last longer, it will do well enough, but the Diagonal Cordon is far superior, even for peaches under the glass of a forcing peach-house. If then it be desired to reduce peach trees, trained on some queer old method, to the newer plans, the shoots must be pinched in, and cut off by degrees till the spur with two shoots thereon is reached. Then some strong shoots should be selected to fill up the blanks between the branches, and. laid in to the wall, F 66 CORDON TRAINING. being very slightly shortened in the winter* Their laterals should be pinched in to two buds, and, with care, the tree will become reorganised in two seasons, without injuring the crop ; because that shoot which is to bear the fruit can be left to bear it, being only pinched off at two leaves beyond the fruit, and cut back behind the fruit immediately after it is gathered. The other non- bearing shoots may be closely pinched in and cut back, as required. There is not very much diffi- culty in doing this. After a severe blight this July, I cut off the miserable ends, and refreshed the trees, and brought them well into shape. As to the treatment of peaches and nectarines in pots, it is easy enough. Treat the spurs and shoots like the Diagonal, only rather more closely pinched in, as there is less room. On the bush tree (like a currant bush), all the branches, say eight or nine, are full of these spurs, and the treatment of them is easy. At the lowest parts the short natural fruit-shoots generally obviate any trouble in this way, which is convenient, because there the branches are, necessarily, near to each other. Of course the upper spurs of bush trees require closer pinching-in than the spurs on the lower sides, and two shoots on each spur are required. 67 CHAP. X. CORDON TRAINING IN APEICOT TREES, The apricot is a magnificent fruit. It probably came from America. Thence it passed into Greece and Italy, and so on to our ungenial climate, and is pretty generally cultivated, capricious as it is in bearing. The apricot does not force very well ; it dislikes a confined atmosphere, and succeeds best in breezy situations, with abundance of sun. In- doors it requires great attention in the blooming season, and careful watering at all times, or it ia liable, either from this cause or from deficient ventilation, to drop its fruit after setting. De Jonghe considers this to arise from not being grown on its own stock, and this may be the case. The more sun and air apricots have the darker will the fruit be, and the better the flavour. Of all in cultivation, I find the Kaisha the best. Some new varieties, as yet unknown, from Lom- bardy, promise extremely well. Diagonal Cordon training is well adapted to produce fine fruit on the apricot. The triple sys- F 2 68 CORDON .TRAINING. tem, with the same intervals between the leaders, is the best suited for this tree. If grown out of doors on espaliers, thick straw palliasses behind the espaliers are necessary until the fruit be half grown, and then removed to give free circulation. But at best, in England, the tree bears only at long intervals. The spring frosts ruin the tender blossoms. It is far best cultivated under glass, except a few hardy varieties, — the names of which are given in the list of trees at the end, — which are useful for preserves, but not very enticing in flavour. The shoots on the leaders should be pinched to four inches as soon as they are six inches in length, and the successive growths on them pinched to one inch more, as soon as they become two inches long. In winter pruning cut back in order to develop the buds at the base of each shoot, and as these are numerous, and more easily developed than in the case of the peach, there is no difficulty whatever in replacing a shoot as soon as worn out, or unsightly from pruning. Tjie appearance of an apricot shoot at the first winter pruning is like that at Fig. 3. In this figure the shoot is shortened in by one-third ; the fruit-buds are seen about half-way up the sides, and the latent butfs appear at the bases. The second growths in Fig. 4, which will eventually grow out from these buds, having the appearance as seen in this last figure, must be Fig. 3. FORMATION OF FRUIT-SPUES ON THE APRICOT. FIRST WINTER'S PRUNING. ^ --^y PRUNING OP APRICOTS. 69 left to bear if on the middle of the spur, but the one or two near the base will be full of leaf- buds, and must be shortened to two buds to form a succession of shoots. About one-third of the whole shoot is removed at this winter pruning ; and the whole length is easily kept within the six inches allowed, because these short laterals will form much of the bearing wood. Remember, however, to shorten some of these, in order to have fruit as near the base as possible. In Fig. 4, the next winter pruning would be just over the two lowest laterals at A, as the upper shoot would then have become much elon- gated, and be fruitful. This has in its turn to be shortened, while the lower would have pushed out in one or two places, and so on. One- long shoot and one short one, as in the peach, is also an excellent plan, but is not shown here to avoid confusion. Do not prune the apricot all at once, as it is a tree liable to gum, and take care the ties are not growing into the bark for the same reason, nor induce plethoric growth by over-feed- ing the tree. Horizontal trees are easily grown in this way. Develop two very long branches, stretching at an angle of forty-five degrees on either side. When fully grown, lower them to the horizontal posi- tion, and the shoots already allowed to extend from the upper sides only, being now vertical, will, in one season more, ascend to a great height ; r 3 70 CORDON TRAINING. they will make, at the same time, laterals, which must be pinched in rather closely at first, Pyra^ midal apricots inpots look very pretty. They are easily grown by continual close summer pinching- in to five or six leaves. The leader, if kept under by several shortenings in, will produce fresh shoots along it. These pyramidal apricots are much recommended by the great authority of Mr, Rivers, and they certainly can be placed very near to each other, say about two feet. If planted in borders they require annual lifting and replanting, and, of course, not so much water, 'Apricot trees, trained spirally as half standards," are very pretty and prolific. In some cases this is necessary, in order to get the fruit near the glass* Fig. 4. FORMATION OF FRUIT-SPURS ON THE APRICOT. SECOND WINTER'S PRUNING. :^'-*rP\ 71 CHAP. XL CORDON TRAINING IN PLUMS AND CHERRT TREES. There were plums in the gardens of Charle- magne. The Reine Claude recalls the memory of the first wife of Francis I. ; while the Da- mascus plum came back to Europe among the Crusaders' baggage. Since these periods this pleasant fruit has daily increased in favour. Nevertheless, it is not cultivated so much as it deserves to be. Plums are in season for nearly five months, and are invaluable for kitchen use. Everyone knows this ; but that which every- one does not know is the amazing variety which exists in the present day, and among them are some extremely valuable plums. Amongst them are the Early Prolific (Rivers), the Jefferson, now, however, becoming appreciated, and rival- ling the greengage (Reine Claude of the French), besides a number of others to be found in the lists of the day. These plums can be kept for some time in muslin bags, and they thus become shrivelled, but luscious in flavour. It is easy, f 4 • 2 CORDON TRAINING. therefore, to have plums for about five months on the table in some form or other. As to cultivation in Orchard-houses they do admirably, but had better be placed out of doors about June or July, so as to improve their flavour, except in cold climates far north. I recommend the Early Prolific as far superior to the Early Yellow, a French sort, which is early, but a shy bearer ; then the Gages ; then Jeffer- son; Heine Claude de Bavay, a standard of per- fection ; the Quetche ; Coe's Late Bed ; and Huling's Superb, for Orchard-houses. But every one can choose, and hardly go wrong, where the variety is so very great and really good. The plum, however, is a coarse feeder, and apt to be very vigorous — too vigorous for fruitful pur- poses. It must, therefore, be kept in hand. The choice, and not too luxuriant sorts, will suit the Diagonal Cordon.; while, for the Horizontal, where there ia plenty of room for lateral expan- sion, select the more vigorous kinds. The plum, contrary to the apricot, improves in flavour from a wall. The treatment of the leaders is as directed for the others, with intervals of twelve inches between them in every case. In Fig, 5 is seen the young shoot of the plum at the winter's pruning. The top must be shortened in, as in the apricot, by about one- third, keeping it to four inches long. The pinch- ing-iu during the summer is as in the apricot Fig. 5. FORMATION OF SPUES ON THE PLUM. FIBST WINTER'S PRUNING. PRUNING OP PLUMS. 73 As soon as six inches long pinch back to four ; the next growth (as seen in Fig. 5) pinch to one inch. Pinch the others closely in, as also seen. In the first winter cut back to four inches. During the ensuing summer endeavour to suppress, on the shoot, the too vigorous triple buds, selecting the feeble buds for the work in hand. Never neglect these plum spurs, or they will develop into rank luxuriance, and become unfruitful for several seasons. If, therefore, a tree be perceived with luxuriant growth on it everywhere, and the extremities waving defiantly in the breeze to the height of some three feet over the wall, which is not unusual, then look for no fruit on any of those parts for two years. In fact, they must be cut out, for the spur would become fearfully thick at the base, and compete with the branches for the sap. Then, if cut out, how very trying to the tree is this ex- cision, and what ugly places appear on the branches. Keep, then, those vigorous triple buds suppressed, and work with the weak ones. Rightly managed, the spur will in a season or two look like that at Fig. 6. This shoot will be shortened to within six inches, i.e. the spur will be four in length, and the laterals about two more. In Fig. 6 this is seen. The little lateral at the top is, say, two inches beyond its parent, and has some neat flower-buds on it. Merely shorten it so as to keep it compact. The next lateral is 74 CORDON TRAINING, treated on the same principles, while that below on the left hand is shortened in order to become a future spur, because the buds at that part are natur- ally leaf-buds, and inclined to extend if cut back to, according to the principles laid down in the be- ginning, of concentrating the sap into one or two buds. On the other side, the right hand, is seen a group of buds which will be fruitful the next season, and must not be touched, just as in the case of the peach. After the laterals at the top have borne, and the shoot, cut back near the base, has made some other ramifications, then will be time to remove the top and its laterals at A, to let these new shoots take their place, leaving the lowest group of buds alone. Others will also spring up, possibly nearer the base, and so on. There is no difficulty whatever, and it is very «asy to keep these spurs within five inches, or even four. Of course, if for a Diagonal Cordon plant, as also apricots, it should be at 36 inches from stem to stem, as in peaches. Above all, avoid all ill-drained soils. THE CHERRY, This delicious little fruit, probably the gift of Lucullus to the Italians, requires very free ven- tilation if kept under glass, and only a few varie- ties are worthy of this care, except in places where birds abound. The very earliest is the Belle d'Orleans, and, as such, is suitable for Fig. 6. FORMATION OF FRUITFUL SPURS ON THE PLUM. SECOND WINTER'S PRUNING. > PRUNING OF CHERRIES. 75 Orchard-houses. The Duke tribe are splendid, and the New Royal is highly spoken of, I have not seen it. Some late kinds are useful to keep, if there is space for them in the House, and they can be kept in muslin bags. The treatment of the spurs is like plums, and very easy, because the groups of round flower-buds soon form at the base, and by pinching freely in can be kept fruit* ful. It is a capital plan to break the shoots instead of cutting them ; and as cherry shoots grow very freely, they must not be overlooked: if so, then it is best to break them partially through, and let the broken ends shrivel up before cutting them off. If grown as bushes in the House, spur them in more closely, and shorten the branches freely. A damp situation is quite unsuitable for a good cherry tree, and they require calcareous matter in the soil. As to Morello cherries, it is a waste of time and labour to grow them on north walls — better leave them to the birds ; while if placed in a fair position, this sort will rival many of the others. I find cherries do remarkably well as Diagonal Cordons, and they do not, as I feared, grow too strongly to be treated in this way. I have a high south wall of these cherries inter- mingled with good plums, and they look very promising, all on the Diagonal plan. Some of my best are the Duchess of Palluau, a new and splendid variety, as a fan- shaped Cordon, and an 76 CORDON TRAINING. Early Black, extremely well grown, because the branches, with the addition of a guiding rod, will grow as straight as pipe sticks, and look magni- ficent. Pyramidal bushes in pots are very hand- some. As soon as four leaves appear on the shoots, pinch in to three, and favour the develop- ment of the base, but not so as to exceed the diameter of the pot. 77 CHAP. XII. CORDON TRAINING IN PEAR TREES. This most valuable fruit is a general favourite, and requires a somewhat peculiar treatment, be- cause it differs from the preceding, especially from the peach, in this important particular, that as soon as a fruitful spur is formed, there is no neces- sity to renew it, — it will last as long as the tree, with due care. No alternation of bearing wood is here needed, as in the peach, and therefore it is the basis of a quite different treatment, which is also applicable to the apple. The pear, however, resembles the peach and nectarine in this respect : that it is equally suited for the various forms of Cordon training, and thrives best on the Diagonal plan. In fact there is really no other way of managing it, and the forms in use are based on the same principles, only misunderstood ; and this is the reason that pear trees bear well in many localities, although our continental neighbours will not believe it. The pear so naturally follows the system described 78 COEDON T&AINING. here, that it leads the primer into it, do what he will ' Many objections, too, having little real force in the case of the peach, have none whatever in the case of the pear. It is a curious fact, that though the pear is con- fessedly a most valuable fruit, and one so generally cultivated, its real history is the least clearly ascertained. There is a quaint tradition that the Sabines planted the Rousselet pear, on what oc- casion is not said. The loss of their wives an J daughters would hardly be a suitable time for pear planting, unless it was intended to console lost fair ones by reminiscences of home, and " perry ; " for this ancient beverage is clearly al- luded to by Pliny, who calls it "excellent." From the Sabines we ascend through the dark ages, unillumined by horticulture, to that period when St^ Martin, the good bishop of Tours, had the honour of having a pear named the " Bon Chretien," as a reward for his virtues. This is about all that is really known about the history of this fruit. The pear accommodates itself to almost any shape, and thus to describe and to practise Cor- don training is equally simple. * Choose, for a Diagonal Cordon, young and straight trees, of equal vigour, one year old from the graft, and, in November or later, lay them in against the wall, just as in peaches, at the same intervals, — and Fig. 7. FORMATION OF FRUITFUL SPURS ON THE PEAR. C03IMENCEMEN T. DIAGONAL CORDON, PEARS. 79 also, the fir'at year, at 60 or 70 degrees of inclina- tion. But do not, as in the case of peaches, cut off the laterals to two buds at planting, as the pear requires all its foliage for the first year. Merely take off one quarter of the extremities of the laterals. During the ensuing summer en- courage the growth of the leader, and pinch in a little of the new wood on the laterals to equalise their vigour. In October cut these laterals in to two buds, and reduce the length of the leader by one-third, above a healthy front bud. The next summer, these two buds, on each lateral, or spur now, will develope themselves. As soon as these new shoots have reached six inches in length, pinch them back to four inches, or about eight or nine leaves. The next growths pinch back to one inch more, and so on. Any shprt shoots near the base which spring out, or any that make their terminal buds under four inches in length, must not be touched, as they are becoming fruitful of themselves from being near the leaders, which shows how natural this system is. Pinch so as to leave as much of wood above the last bud left as you can, because this exhausts the sap, in drying it up, and the buds below have a greater chance of being left dormant, that is, not "stimulated to elongate," as Lindley says. The young shoots must not be allowed to grow till they are, say, ten inches long, instead of six inches. If they have been thus unwisely ne- 80 CORDON TRAINING. glected, then it is too late to pinch in. If you did, some of the buds at the end would break out into short laterals, just what is undesirable. If, however, they have reached to ten or twelve inches unperceived, then bend them backwards, and twist them into a knot. This checks further growth, and they can be cut back in the winter. If they are very vigorous shoots, from the tree being of a powerfully growing kind, or from the shoots themselves being in a vertical (a most dangerous) position, then the evil is much greater. You must partially break them through, about half way, and in addition pinch off the ends of the rampant shoots, and let them hang thus, and shrivel up, till the winter pruning ; and even then, probably, a season will be lost before fruit appears at that spot In the case of Diagonal Cordon training against walls, all forerights must also be preserved. The leader will soon reach eight or ten feet, and can, in the winter pruning, be lowered to 45 degrees, there to remain in future. As in peaches, a strong lateral shoot having been reserved to form the second leader, which is also, of course, twelve inches distant, it will be shortehed-in a little, and so ready to be bent upwards as the second leader next summer. In fact, the principles for forming a Diagonal Cor- don, with triple leaders, are similar to those in the peach, with the marked exception of the treatment of the spurs. In the winter pruning Fig. 8. FORMATION OF FRUITFUL SPURS ON THE PEAR. COMPLETION. SPUBS ON THE PEAR. 81 of these spurs, and the two shoots on each, which haying been several times pinched in, look like Fig. 7, they must now be broken, not cut at four inches. The original spurs add an inch or so to the total length, but it will always be easy to keep the shoots and spurs under six inches. Some of the shoots may have less than the three buds shown, which is of no consequence, for one fruitful bud is enough on each shqpt. At the completion of the pruning (see Fig. 8), when in winter, the ends are finally to be cut off, — not bro- ken now, as in Fig. 7, where the object is different. When the ends are finally cut off, as seen, then nothing remains to be done, for the buds will have that appearance of protuberance and round- ness that they can no longer be mistaken. They are to remain, therefore, on the shoots, one, two, or three, but never more. The three leaders will shortly be completed, and the wall look remarkably well. An immense saving of time is gained in this way. There are other irregular forms to be met with among the spurs, but they cannot be entered into in so brief a work as this is. I will therefore only add, that as soon as a pear has been produced on a shoot, cut off the pulpy part to which it held ; but only cut off the extremity, otherwise the latent buds, for other seasons, will be destroyed. 82 CORDON TRAINING, CHAP. XIIL HORIZONTAL, VERTICAL, AND SPIRAL CORDONS # IN PEAR TREES. In all of these, the spurs are managed exactly as before described. The Vertical Cordon may have the shape described in the Miniature Fruit Garden, page 17 ; i. e. it may have five leaders trained upwards. Trees on this mode bear very well. It is recommended by Mr. Rivers. The distances and spurs may be as described in the Diagonal Cordon. A great variety of fruits is obtainable in this way, — no small advantage. Spiral cordons are treated in the same way as to spurs and distances. Three trees together may thus be grown (each on a single Cordon), if so wished, because the length of the spiral neutralises the otherwise too great growth. Or one tree with three leaders may be trained thus. Most handsome and prolific trees they will be, and very amusing to watch. They are also very suitable for small gardens, as standards. Indeed, there is no better form in this case. Standard pear trees require some peculiar vari- PRUNING OF PEAR TREES. ations in their treatment. The shoots which areT nearest to the main stem, and on the branches, will be generally weak, and should not be inter- fered with, as they are almost sure to become fruitful in time. The next on the branch, higher up, if under four inches in length, should also not be interfered with ; but those on the highest portions of the branches will always grow freely, because the sap flows thither vigorously. That mode, which is the same in principle, of bending the branches towards each other, is also a good way of checking a vigorous tree ; but with a weak-growing tree it is useless. More- over, the ends of the branches thus bent should be let loose in time, or they will dry up, and the vertical spurs must be closely watched. Horizontal, or fan-shaped pear trees are trained on these same principles. The lowest stage of branches must not be lowered too soon, as before said. These must be pinched to four buds, and the further growths each to. one bud more. In the winter they must be broken at three buds. The very strong shoots should be only partially broken through, instead of pinching them off, and broken off quite at the winter pruning. The horizontal shoots are more fruit-bearing than the vertical. These last are annoying, and grow fast ; of course there are no spurs with two shoots on them, as in wall cordons, but each spur is a single one. G 2 84 CORDON TRAINING, The maximum of inclination of any branch from the main stem is seventy degrees. As the tree grows, shorten the leaders each winter, and the leading side branches by one-third, then by one-fourth, and finally, by one-sixth of their length ; so that the tree should grow in a pyra- midal form, and the lower stages be always longer than those above them. This golden rule is too often neglected ; but the tree should not be al- lowed to become pillar-like by letting the leaders be too long, or by dwarfing the lowest stage of branches. The following brief notes on training Pyramid standards were made by me at Angers : — 1st year of planting. Plant in November, and trim off one quarter of the side branches only. 2nd year of planting, 1st of training. Leave twelve inches of stem ; select six buds for branches and one for a leader. Cut the branches close in to the stem, but not too near. The tree now looks like a walking-stick. 3rd year of plantation, 2nd of training. The first stage of six branches will develop itself, and allowing an interval of twelve inches, six more buds for the second stage of branches must be chosen, and one to continue the leader. Incise semicircularly over the three lowest eyes to check the sap, and develope them. Pinch in, and break in winter the laterals on the first or lowest stage of branches, now pretty long ; keep them much longer than the second stage, STANDARD PEAR TREES. 85 4th year of plantation, 3rd of training. Allow twelve inches more of interval for a third stage. The 2nd stage will now progress ; continue the leader vigorously upwards. Pinch laterals on the 1st and 2nd stage to four buds, and break in winter to three buds. One half of the new wood on lowest stage must now be cut off. 5th year of plantation, 4th of training. An- other interval; another stage. One-sixth only of the new wood on lowest stage should now be cut off. Regulate the upper stages from this one, and, tapering upwards, ascend to thirty feet by six feet at the base. Manure no deeper than three inches, — Le. old litter lightly forked in, — and do not disturb the upper soil more than is needed for weeding, &c. Mulch in July after the ground has become heated, but never before. l Graft pears in August. As to apples, the treatment is similar to that recommended for pears. Bushes are the best form, with branches connected with their neighbours. These bushes should be at intervals of four feet. G 3 86 CORDON TRAINING, CHAP. XIV. REMARKS ON TREES IN POTS. The Cordon system, in its various forms, is admirably adapted for potted trees.* My own trees in pots have succeeded admirably, and there really seems no other way of treating them. The only real difficulty I have ever experienced in Orchard-house culture, has been to keep away the red spider. The green aphis, when neglected in the spring, has sometimes destroyed the fruit of whole trees, with the ends of the young shoots. But as this did not form a part of the Cordon system, it produced confu- sion in every part. But there is a remedy. The green fly is easily destroyed by mixing two ounces of tobacco in a quart of boiling water, and when cool, gently brushing the leaves vp- wards with a soft brush, dipped in the infusion. The blue aphis on the plum, and the dreadful black on the cherry, are to be similarly welcomed. * See pages 54, 55, and 56, Orchard-House ; by Mr. Rivers. THE TREATMENT OF INSECTS. 87 The brown aphis feeds on the young shoots of peaches in early winter, and must be dealt with in like manner. But all these fade into insigni- ficance when compared to the pest of the house* the Bed Spider* This dangerous foe requires early attention. A small magnifying glass will discover it, like a grain of red sand, slowly walk- ing over the under side of the leaves. But, after & little sad practice, one glance at the yellow spots on the upper surface of the leaf is enough. This disaster arises generally from confined and heated air, and insufficient syringing. Indeed I found that near the ventilators, — I mean those at the top, where the air is rarified by its ascent, *— and at the very lowest parts of the stems, where it was difficult to apply the syringe, and behind even a slight pillar, three inches in thickness, which screened a few leaves from the shower of water, — in these three places alone, did the red spider first come, and was so rigidly syringed down that he made little further pro- gress. But the Gishurst compound is an excel- lent m cure, and not dear to purchase, say two ounces per gallon of rain water. Syringe the afflicted parts well ; or I should say, under them, because it is often by syringing above the leaves in a graceful manner that the only efficient way of watering the under portions, where the insects are, is neglected. "With these precautions, and avoiding this sprinkling when the sun is on the Q 4 88 CORDON TRAINING. leaves, (so as not to burn them into holes,) the amateur may be at peace. I always followed Mr. Rivers's directions in planting pretty closely, and wish now to add, that it is of much importance to pot early, even just as the leaves are falling, because the trees are less checked. In October and November, then, let the bush or Pyramid trees, &c. be potted very firmly with plenty of drainage and calcareous matter, good loam and very old manure. The whole should be firmly beaten into the pots, and some loose manure suffered to lie on the sur- face. Then give a good watering or two, and let them rest without water, unless the roots shrivel during the winter months. The Orchard- house is then supposed to be gay with Chry- santhemums for which it is extremely well adapted. Range the trees neatly side by side at the lower end of the house, and by elevating a row or two of the flowers, they may hardly be seen. Ventilate in fine weather, but shut up in frosty and windy days. As to the trees which have borne during the past year, the amateur will know how to manage them; that is, the roots which have penetrated through the five holes — the best number — at the bottom of each pot, must be cut off, and five or six inches deep of the old soil being neatly picked out of the pots, to about four inches of the edges, fresh good loam and manure must be added. By no APPROACH OF SPBING. 89 means let the trees be taken out of the pots, as ignorant gardeners will be sure to advise. Soak once or twice with water, and place the trees with the others to rest. In cold localities the house must be well shut up when the weather is severe ; and should the temperature sink below zero, then some dry hay among the pots or round them, and over their surfaces, will be very useful. As February comes place the trees three feet apart from stem to stem in their places. A house of thirty feet will hold at least thirty fine trees. I have many more, but these are pyra- midal or slender Cordons, and take far less room than the bush trees. Therefore the amateur must be guided by circumstances, as he can always remove superfluous trees in July out of doors to make room for the rest Some of the fruit-bearing bushes may also be placed close to a warm wall, between the wall trees, to ripen their fruits, which they will do a week or two later than if kept in-doors. I found the fruit smaller in size, but generally finer in colour. By March all pruning must be over as before directed, and watering, except in severe frosts, begin. Ventilate in mild or sunny weather, but let the house be closed up in windy weather, or at night. Changes of temperature or high winds are now fatal to the blossoms, and the trees look most beautiful. A handsome Orchard-house of 90 CORDON TRAINING. great length will look extremely like a well-filled conservatory at this period ; the various-coloured blossoms making a gay and cheerful appearance, all the more precious because of the coldness of the out-door weather. But on sunny days, with the ventilation then needed, the air will soon be heated by some 10 degrees, and be refreshing to the invalid, resembling that of a southern climate- Having spent many winters in the south, I can answer for the resemblance in the dry and fragrant temperature ; perhaps the less we talk about the latter quality in the south the better, except among the orange and lemon trees, I can imagine nothing more refreshing than for a studious man to have a long walk like this opening out of his study. Every time he raises his eyes he is delighted with the lovely view, and when, unable to resist the temptation, he arises and strolls through his young trees, all so familiar to him, how can he refrain from being thankful for such precious gifts ! A house 100 feet long, will furnish him in its two paths, and extre- mities, with 250 feet of space for exercise, unexposed to the weather, and from which he cannot but return to his labours much strength- ened and revived. These young trees are highly suggestive. In their growth, in their produce tion, in their rest, and in their decay, they are all potent images of our own harassing career, and of its final close. « FIRST SWELL." 91 When the young 'trees are in bloom they re- quire much care — they should be well watered*, or the fruit will not set, and a gentle shaking will tend to facilitate this important operation. A rather high and constant temperature is also now very necessary. When, about the end of April, the fruit begins to " make its first swell," (as gardeners say), begin to syringe but gently* and under the leaves only, and do not neglect to water the trees, especially in warm weather. Ventilation is now of great importance, and, in May, all these cares are doubly needed. Worsted netting will diminish draughts, and keep out sooty particles, so that Orchard-houses, by this simple precaution, succeed admirably in large towns. The summer pinching-in of the young shoots on the spurs will now have fairly com- menced, and the amateur be in full career, as this is an important period. Syringing early, say before 8 o'clock, — and late, after 6 o'clock in the evening, when there id little sun to hurt, — must now be carefully at- tended to, under penalty of insects' tyranny* Trees three years old require two or three quarts of water at a time, and I find it far better (as in- deed it is in the case with flowers), to soak therrt occasionally than to sprinkle the surface daily* Trees seven or eight years old require one gallon * No syringing is here meant. 92 CORDON TRAINING- of water at a time, — thus a good garden engine is very useful, and saves time. Trees in the borders of course require less water, but they should be soaked when it is done. By the time June comes, the fruit will be getting large, and syringing be required vigor- ously. There is now no danger of shaking down the young fruits. Some plums can be put out of doors, and some apricots also, but not unless so needed from want of room. Every care must be given to ventilate the house by night and by day, or the worst consequences will follow. The potted trees should be lifted up once this month, and once in July, to check the luxuriance of the roots getting into the borders. Plenty of water- ing and syringing in July, and fresh compost placed on the surface of the pots, to be washed in by the daily waterings. July or August is the best time for removing trees for fruiting in the open air, as the season is most propitious for them; and, after having been prepared by the two previous breakings-off of the roots (when lifted, as before directed), they suffer no check, and the fruit is of a suitable size for being com- pletely ripened. Some trees can be placed near a west wall to retard them by a fortnight, so as to have a succession of fruits. When the windy autumn comes, care must be taken not to let the ripe fruits be shaken off by gusts of wind. Ventilators to leeward are then invaluable. i THREE NEEDFUL DUTIES. 93 When October and November return, the potting of new trees (to increase the stock or as a reserve), and the renewing of the top soil of the older trees, takes place. This is a busy time, and should be carefully attended to. Unless watched, servants will not take sufficient care, either in syringing, ventilation, or potting, the three most important duties of the Orchard-house. This is, in fact, the only real drawback to the success of the matter. No one can fail if he attend to these particulars, but wherever you read of failures it is caused by some prejudiced domestic or inattentive master. I find 13-inch pots the most useful size; but trees, in 18-inch pots, are extremely enticing to cultivate. Of course the rows nearest to the lower portions of the house must be bush trees, with open centres ; then should come handsome spiral Cordons of all kinds, and, in the higher rows, pyramidal apricots or peaches ; and, if a lean-to, Diagonal Cordons on the wall. Trees in pots bear very well ; the branches should not be pinched back too abruptly, but allowed to elongate much farther than they will ultimately be cut down to in the winter. If the ends are too closely pinched in, then the lateral shoots will grow too fast ; and if these too be also shortened, the tr6e may be unduly dwarfed. Neither, on the other hand, should a rank luxuriant growth be encouraged, by allow- 94 CORDON TRAINING. ing too great length in fast-growing sorts, or by stimulating the roots by excess of water, and too large supplies of manure, because these trees will not readily bear under these conditions, and if once they get into the habit of thus ex- tending, it is surprising how difficult it is to keep them under in pots. But with ordinary skill, and the attention required to the common things of life, there need be no apprehension entertained of failure in pot cultivation of fruit trees. There is an annual crop of feeding roots from above, and one from below, and if unpruned, these last would descend into the border, and thence draw too potent nourishment. Lifting the trees in June and in July prevents all this. If the trees be in borders, then annual removal (which is less severe, whatever may be said, than biennial,) has the same effect. The roots are kept com- pact, and a healthy development of spongioles induced close to the root stem. 95 CHAP. XV. HOW TO SUPPLY BLANK SPACES IN CORDONS. It will occasionally happen that, in spite of every care, blank spaces will appear on the leaders of the various kinds of Cordons. These occasion the only disfigurement possible in the whole gystem, unless in the case of severe blight out of doors, which calamity is common to all kinds of training, and, therefore, requires a remedy, which is, fortunately, simple and efficacious. Where- ever, then, a whole spur has died off, or been destroyed by accident, one of the shoots of the spur immediately below this spot should be allowed to grow to twelve or fifteen inches in length. It will do so by midsummer, or at least by the beginning of August, during which period is the proper time for applying it to fill up the vacant space. It is done thus. See that this shoot fit flatly and neatly to the spot on which it is desirable it should ultimately grow, and having marked 96 CORDON TRAINING. lightly the boundaries of the proposed excisions and incisions, which are to be If inches in length, both on the shoot and on the leader : the succeed- ing process resembles budding roses. For a cut If inches long being made lengthwise through the bark of the leader, two more transverse cuts are next made through the bark, one at either end of the first cut. Take care not to cut too deeply, and do not lacerate any part, or the place where the descending fibres of the new roots are to be will be ruined. Carefully then lift up the bark and make it thus ready, as in budding roses, to re- ceive the new shoot under the bark. This shoot* having been marked where it is to meet the opened bark, must be now operated on. A slice is to be scooped out of it, cleanly and neatly, If inches long, and the shoot must then be neatly slipped into the orifice, and under the bark of the leader. I must not omit here to state that a bud must have been managed to be left in the side of this shoot, which is just opposite to the sliced-out part, so that when it has been slipped into its place under the bark, this bud shall appear pro- truding, exactly as in budding roses. Proceed then with white worsted to bind carefully round all the parts operated on, leaving out the bud, and bind the shoot into the leader. By this means you will exclude all the air. If neatly done it will surely succeed. All which I did last year TO SUPPLT DEFICIENCIES. 97 succeeded, and were so firmly united that they bore fruit, but did not ripen it. In the ensuing spring, the ligatures being re-- moved, the shoot will be found united, inarched in fact, into the leader. Then divide the shoot, just behind and under where it is growing into the leader, leaving it there as a new spur, while the remaining portion, still attached to the lower spur, is bent back to its former position, and cut back to two buds, as required. Thus there is a new spur gained, without loss to that from which it was supplied. In this way all blaiik spaces are readily filled up. Should, however, any one be desirous of -budding to fill up this blank, then let a triple bud be selected ; but it is, at best, a hazardous experiment, except on very young wood, while the plan recommended is far safer and quite as easily executed. This method is much in use in France, and called there ss greffe par approche herbacfie." A neat illustration can be seen in M. Dutreuil's work, at page 7, ed. 1857. H 98 CORDON TRAINING. CHAP. XVI. OBJECTIONS TO CORDON TRAINING ANSWERED. The first objection to Cordon training seems to be its apparently artificial form, by which the tree, being closely spurred in during the summer, is more rapidly exhausted and its duration di- minished. You hear people after passing by the Cordon trees with "faint praise grudgingly given," even to visible results, come at last to some other specimen, trained on obsolete systems, and exclaim, " Ah ! this looks like a tree." A sigh of relief at their torture being now over, proves the sincerity of their present words. How often has it been my fate to hear such observa- tions, not from prejudiced and ignorant men, but from otherwise well-informed people. I really think that in this, as in many other cases by the bye, that the fairer half of the creation has shown a higher discernment. It is truly as- tonishing how soon intelligent ladies will surpass us in horticultural pursuits ; and, no doubt, the day is at hand when the soi-disant lords of the OBJECTIONS ANSWERED. 99 creation will surrender the management of their Orchard-houses to the more enterprising manage- ment, certainly to the more patient investigation x>f causes and results — of their help-mates. They at least have generally taken on trust what they did not immediately apprehend; and at the end of the season been able to rejoice in their de- cision. But in the case immediately referred to all ex- perience, as yet, proves that no exhaustion of the trees, nor shortening of their lives, takes place. And if it did, the remedy is so obvious and so cheap as to make this objection futile; for as long as half-a-dozen trees in pots can supply a reserve, nothing further need in reality be urged. Still it must be added, that if excessive pro- duction be the cause of the destruction of the trees after a certain number of years, then this is by no means an unpleasant occurrence, for the fact is that they at present bear very little in proportion to the time and labour devoted to them, Uut how long it will take to exhaust the trees is not confidently stated by any one ; and for this excellent reason, that no trees have as yet been exhausted after fifteen years' trial, nor are any cases likely to occur for a longer time. When we consider the " fast habits" of the present day, it would seem strange if trees did not partake of the general rapidity of circulation ; and no doubt a " fast nectarine" has good cause H 2 100 CORDON TRAINING. to look back at its * c slow but not sure" rivals toiling painfully up the walls. In the case, too, of horizontal Cordons and standard pear trees this objection does not apply, for these are the slowest portions of the system, and by no means the most productive. But the next objection is of a widely different character. Now it is argued that the sap of the tree, far from exhausting the whole, will, by being kept within undue bounds, act with such vigour on the shoots, that they must become elongated or wood shoots, and bear no fruit, especially in our moist climates. To this it is answered, that in the dry atmo- sphere of the Orchard-house no such result need be apprehended ; while in the case of trees in the open ground against walls the growth of the leaders depends mainly on the powers of the roots, and these are greatly checked in their lateral expansion by the nearness of their neighbours. At the most, thirty-six inches is but a limited space for roots of trees to expand laterally. Again, root pruning, or annual lifting, is quite as easy of application to any cordon tree as it is to other trees ; nay, easier, for many reasons. Besides, any gardener knows, that by allowing a foot or two of the leaders to grow beyond the wall, and thus exhaust the superabundant sap by gradually bending these downwards, and short- OBJECTIONS ANSWERED. 101 ening them in the autumn, these things greatly tend to keep the balance of growth preserved. The borders of any trees should be well drained ; the trees should not be stimulated with too rich materials, and any protection to ward off the heavy autumnal rains by a broad coping (such as the old monks always had on their walls) at the summit, and some planks sloping over the border, — these last being also of a good slope. With such precautions, indispensable under any system whatever, there is no ground for such fears. It is also for this reason chiefly that triple Cor- dons are recommended by me, having tried the single ones previously. These last succeed well in France; and if any one will reflect that a Diagonal Cordon tree, with three leaders, will, on a fair wall, cover about sixty square feet, why should it be less likely to bear than another tree nine feet in extension by seven in height, which contains sixty-three square feet only? In the latter case everyone knows that a tree of this kind can, and will produce some five dozen peaches yearly; but in the case of my own Diagonal Cordons (under glass, it is true), they produced at the rate of 150 or more peaches on the same space. As to pear trees on this plan, I am convinced that they will succeed admirably, all conditions for success being duly observed. I have none whatever under glass, because the H3 102 CORDON TRAINING. climate of Guernsey, where I reside, does not require this ; but neither does it in any part of England, except far north. Out of doors I have this year some fine specimens of fruit, although many of my pear trees are much younger than the peach trees. 103 CHAP, XVII. BEMAEKS ON THE DIMENSIONS, &C. SUITABLE FOB OBCHABD-HOUSES. Although a number of these interesting struc- tures are now in full work, and are becoming more known daily, as may be seen from the number of inquiries made respecting my own, and those of others, perhaps a few remarks on their dimensions and form may not be out of place. A lean-to Orchard-house, thirty feet long, should be thirteen feet wide. If the back wall be twelve feet high, that is ample ; and the front should be about four or five feet high, but not more. Shutters from twelve to fifteen inches in width all along the front, which is conveniently made of half-inch boards, and about half of the same quantity of ventilation at the back, are re- quired. Glass ventilators, swinging on pivots, instead of wooden ones, are more expensive, but where this is of no consequence, much preferable. Such a house need not cost 307. A lean-to house, 100 feet long or more, with walls fifteen feet high, and eighteen or twenty H 4 104 COBDON TRAINING. feet wide, would be magnificent, and have a double walk : one near the wall trees, and one near the front row. In the smaller lean-to, which is only thirteen feet wide, one walk only is permissible, and that may be where you please ; but near the wall trees is best, as it gives more head-room, and enables you to attend to the wall trees better. To do this, a small ladder six feet high, and exactly twelve inches in breadth (in order to slip between the spurs), is requisite. A small span-roofed house should be fourteen feet wide, five feet high at the sides, and nine feet high to the ridge. One centre walk leads between two rows of potted trees on either hand, the smaller trees, of course, nearest to the sides. A house thirty feet by fourteen costs about 30/. Larger houses are twenty feet wide, sides about five feet high, height to the ridge about ten feet ; the paths, two in number, must be two and a-half feet wide. The trees are placed on raised beds, bricked in : these beds, at the sides, should be four feet wide and fifteen inches high ; but in the central bed (there are three beds in all), some- what higher and one-third broader. Here can be grown fine pyramidal apricots and plums; pears of choice kinds, and cherries, &c. One of Mr. Rivera's last and best is 100 feet long by twenty-four, and twelve feet high in the centre by five and a-quarter feet at the sides. It is glazed at either end, and the roof is supported by seven DIMENSIONS OP HOUSES. 105 light iron pillars, the rafters being light. There is a central border, and two paths, but none of the borders are raised, which I prefer. These large houses should stand endwise N. E. and S. W. ; for if placed N. W. and S. E. some parts are in shade. Nothing can well be finer than these large span-roofed houses; they are most ornamental and productive. 106 COEDON TRAINING. CHAP. XVIII. NAMES OF SOME VARIETIES RECOMMENDED FOR IN-DOOR AND OUT-DOOR CULTURE. In the Orchard-house, the Red Masculine ( Abri- cot prlcoce) is a small round-shaped apricot, pale, and musky in flavour. It ripens about the be- ginning of July, or even earlier in hot seasons. The Large Early (Gros pr&soce d'Esperen) fol- lows it It is larger, but not richer in flavour. I have some new varieties from Lombardy, one in particular, large and very early, is far superior to either of these. Then comes the valuable Kai- sha, the Syrian importation, which is a most valu- able variety — small, but well flavoured — sugary, and it is also prolific. Then the Moorpark, a week later, takes you into the middle of August. The Apricot peach closes the list of really useful sorts, though you may add many more, as Beauge, a capital late variety of the Apricot peach, and if an early sort be required, there are the Musch or the Viard to choose between. Peaches for the Orchard-house. — Here the variety is large, but in reality only a certain num- PEACHES BECOMMENDED. 107 ber need be cultivated. In countries where the peach bears tolerably out o£ doors, then the very early and the very late sorts should be selected, although, as was truly said to me the other day, u If you have magnificent Royal George peaches out of doors, you may have the same sort a fort- night earlier in the House, and so the whole crop will not ripen at one time." Now, this is a real advantage, as every peach- grower knows, for I have literally found them fall by scores from my trees during the night, and been obliged to let them perish, they were so bruised and so common. Nets, in this case, should be spread 18 inches above the ground to catch them. But this is ridiculous cultivation, and similar to that in the west of Canada, where, in the peach orchards, the pigs devour the greater part of the fruit beneath the standard trees. So, our object should rather be — " not so much, but better." In the Orchard-house, then, the first fruit is the Red Nutmeg ( Avant Peche rouge), which is a singularly small peach, ripe in July. Then the Early York, an American novelty, is highly spoken of — Mr. Rivers considers it excellent. Then the Acton Scott, an intermarriage between Noblesse and Red Nutmeg. Such are the absurd names given to these fruits. But Acton Scott is useful for early exhibitions ; and though a pale, 108 COEDON TRAINING. medium-sized peach, will probably yet hold its ground. • The Petite Mignonne comes next, a capital variety, and to connoisseurs, the best early peach. It is rare, however, and is succeeded by the Old Grosse Mignonne, which every one speaks so much of; but I cannot say much for it, as it is every one's duty to speak the truth ; and then the mid-season peaches. Noblesse is a well-known kind to the visitors of Covent Garden. Choose the Sulhampstead variety of this, it being by far the best, and the hardiest for the open wall, and also forces well. Then the JJeine des Vergers, a very good peach (mine ripened early in August this year) ; then Royal George and Red Magdalen; two old friends found in every old garden. After these come the Malta, that excellent peach. Noisette, no mean judge, calls it "his favourite ; " and mine this year, even the smallest, were nine inches in circumference. Besides, the Malta peach will hang on the tree without falling, an excellent quality in any fruit It will also be the best to send to your friends at a distance, be- cause it bears carriage the best of any. Then you may have the Chancellor peach; Rivers and Leroy of Angers call it Cf excellent," though MacEwen calls it " ugly." It is a long, almond-shaped peach — rather bitter, but otherwise curious, and good. Mine this year were very fine. Then Barrington ; then Bourdine, PEACHES RECOMMENDED. 109 all September peaches, but in the Orchard-house rather earlier ; then Walburton Admirable, that noble kind, and Desse Tardive — a most beau- tiful, yellow-coloured, large variety. I have Bellegarde (Noire de Montreuil), which the French rave about. It is excellent, but not first-rate under glass, nor Belle Bauce. Belle de Vitry ripened in September. It is a staple of the Montreuil gardens for the Paris market with Bellegarde, — and I prefer it, — but the tree is very vigorous, and may exceed your powers to keep it under. Mr. Rivers does not notice it in his catalogue, and you can do without it. Then there are the Pavie or clingstone peaches; of which I can only say, that they who make trial of them will discover something worth their labour. My own this year are very fine; but I cannot retard them as I hoped. Pavie de Tonneux, (s fruit magnifique," (as Leroy says), ripens a month earlier than was desirable ; but is a noble peach. Many others the amateur will see in cata- logues, and will, in time, choose for himself. For the present, I content myself with stating what I have found very good. I must not omit, how- ever, Pourpree H&tive. If you can get it true it is of a most vinous flavour, and Admirable Jaune, a capital peach — yellow — and common at Angers in September. I have three trees of this kind, one full of fruit, but not yet gathered. 110 CORDON TRAINING. Also Monstrueuse de Dou6 was very fine indeed from the wall. Tardive d'Espagne, a late pointed peach, is as yet far from ripe, and I have great hopes it will not ripen till late in October. All my desires have been to prolong the peach season. I found the Orchard-house hastens them too much, and a late peach, truly good, is yet a variety to be desired everywhere. One that should be ripe in November, say by the 5th, and yet require no sugar to eat with it, has not yet been found, Nectarines for the Orchard-house. — Here I enter into the best part of the subject, according to my own ideas, — a ripe nectarine beingi as I think, the finest of all fruits, and far superior to a peach. As to growing nectarines in the open air, it is simply ridiculous, and only answers in extraordinary seasons. In the House, Fairchild's Early is a small but early variety ; then Hunt's Tawny, a distinct, yellow nectarine, of not too much flavour, but excellent nevertheless. Then folio ws rapidly in August, Elruge ( QLil-rouge ?), a very old sort, as old as Charles IPs. time. It is most useful for exhibiting, as any list proves, and capital for forcing; but Only of medium size. Violette Hative is a very superior variety, excel- lent for exhibition, only medium size, but prolific and good. Pitmaston too is well known. These three are first-rate. Hardwich Seedling, hardy, NECTARINES RECOMMENDED. Ill firm flesh, a great favourite of mine ; then the Murrey, medium size, immense stone, very racy 1 flavour ; the Due du Telliers, a large prolific kind, very good indeed. The Downton, large and showy, but not so aromatic as the Murrey. The Late Melting, a good late sort for exhibitors. The White is also earlier than some of these, and the Newington race are all good. The Red Roman is immense, but difficult to soften, and the Stanwick is the best of all. It, however, cracks very much ; nevertheless it is very sweet, and the kernel has really no bitter taste, as reported. Mine this year are very fine and numerous, and I think with care they might be grown without fire heat; otherwise this is the chief of nectarines in every way. It is of Syrian extraction ; and comes, I think, from our Consul there. Plums for the Orchard-house. — The Early Favourite (Rivers) ripens the earliest, about the middle of July. Then the St. Etienne about the beginning of August, — a sweet yellow plum. Then Denhiston's Superb, darker in colour, very prolific, and very good. Then the Green Gage for the end of August ; the delicious American Jefferson ; the Reine Claude de Bavay, a splendid plum ; Coe's Golden Drop, first-rate for pots ; the old Quetsche ; the Late Orleans, and Huling's Superb. All these are very good for pot culture, and can be depended on. 112 CORDON TRAINING. Pears for the Orchard-house. — In this case each person must select according to his indivi- dual taste. Some kinds are really better, as the Brown Beurre, the Josephine de Malines, the Beurre Clairgeau, the Bergamotte d'Esperen, the Winter Nelis, the Louise Bonne, and the Van Mons Leon Leclefc. All these are decidedly good pears. The Winter Nelis and Josephine are the best, according to Mr. Rivers. The summer pears hardly require protection; but if in cold localities far north it is wished to have one or two in-doors, then choose the Doy- enn6 d'Et6 and the Jargonelle. Apples. — The Newtown Pippin and Northern Spy are the best, and others are readily discovered if required. It must not be forgotten by the amateur, that at least one-half of the trees for his Orchard- house should be purchased in a bearing state, because by this plan he will have fruit at once, and also have models of what his training the others should be. For out-door culture, the best peaches are Noblesse, Royal George, Gxosse Mignonne, Belle- garde, Red Magdalen; and, of late sorts, Sourdine and Chancellor. The Elruge, Violette Hative,and Pitmaston oranges are the best for out-door cul- ture ; of the nectarines. Apricots. — The Moor- park in favourable localities, but it is a very shy TREES FOB OPEN AIR CULTURE. 113 bearer ; the Roman, the Hermskirke, a nice large variety ; and the hardy Breda, which comes in August, and can be recommended. Alberge de Montgamet is small, early and hardy. The Royal Apricot is also a valuable kind. 114 CORDON TRAINING. CHAP. XIX. CONCLUDING OBSERVATIONS. This last chapter shall be soon written. By 'this time, doubtless, the amateur is more than satiated with peremptory precepts. But they were un- avoidable. The only alternative was to introduce endless physiological discussions, which it would not have been difficult to do, but which would not have simplified anything. On the other hand, without a few general principles on which sound training is best conducted, every observa- tion would necessarily have had to be taken on trust. The consolation is, that this defect is common to all books on fruit culture. " The explanations of horticultural operations," says Lindley, " are simple, and free from obscurity ; provided they are not encumbered with specula- tions. Chemical illustrations, unless of the sim- plest kind, or references to the agency of electri- city, have little obvious application to practical purposes." The object of a brief work like this, is not to REPOSE OP PLANTS. 115 elucidate the laws of vegetable life in all their minute and, it must be freely confessed, obscure details, but to narrate to those already acquainted with the art of horticulture, some experiences, with which they have not had the leisure to be* come familiar. Certainly there were many most interesting natural phenomena which were very tempting to enter into : respecting temperature, for example, a vital point in these matters; or moisture of soils; on the periods required by plants for rest, which is a very important subject, and one which that acute observer, Mr. Knight, has so well explained. Certainly, few peoplejppreciate the necessity ^ ofjiumal repose for plants^asj^HLMjfee]r^b^( restjluring the wi nter months,, and thus the per-/ nicious custom of keeping up high temperatures) during the night hj. forcing houses is still too\ much in favour. This vicious custom exhausts* the trees, without promoting their growth orl aiding the ripening process, and as it bears so/ directly on the subject treated of here, I cannot \ refrain from quoting as follows: "As early in the spring as I wanted the blossoms of my peach \ trees to unfold, my house was made warm during ) the middle of the day ; but, towards night, it was'. suffered to cool, and the trees well syringed at as / nearly the temperature of the natural exhalations ) as I could." Under this treatment Mr. Knight's trees z 2 /£/ 116 CORDON TRAINING. flourished, and the blossoms were extremely large, this being a most important matter, as the size of the blossom much regulates the size of the fruit. Then the subject of soils is quite endless. It, however, deserves a volume to itself, it is so im- portant. For example, in sandy districts which are so very soon heated, the sand seldom dries deeper than ten or twelve inches, while sea-salt becomes damp at night. On the other hand, clay heats very slowly, besides being too compact for the \ spongioles to penetrate, and retaining water. It / has, therefore, every bad quality. S^ftd, however, \ dries up too rapidly to be suitable by itself. ^A / mean_hetwepn tjiftsej^tT^mft naafta }^ |,hg l ft f nrft - \of gengrdjise, jyitU. the addition of peat. These / exercise separate and counteracting influences. Thft fofrpi PHTiflnlidat tes. : the, saniJighiens; and /thereat unites. Thi ft {*, i^x^gr^ a profit Vmixture. ) Nevertheless^ tlu&Joan^ winch has th f L p?n gt^ (calcareous matter is far the best,. for cafcaiSOUS. 'earth enters^ largely into -the. QlgauJfiai&DLJof \ plants. It also, according to Davy, depends on the action of the lime and vegetable matter together. Manures act, either by stimulating, by absorbing the moisture, or by supplying food, i. e. carbon and nitrogen. Carbonic acid, at least, forms an essential part of the substances of plants. FALL OP RAIN, — VENTILATION. 117 It is, however, proper to apply manure when the plants are rapidly growing, and to those parts which can absorb it, and not, as a great many do, at the stems of the trees. The fall of rain furnishes the observer with many most interesting phenomena for remark, and thus horticulture leads the inquirer into many paths he would otherwise never have trod. Less rain will certainly fall on the top of the house than falls on the surface of the ground. The average of downpour of a day and night is one inch of water ; but in the west of England it is { one third more, and in the lake districts double < the quantity. It is also remarkable how a high * temperature with a south-west wind will absorb the vapours, and cause a delicious temperature, most healthy for men as well as for plants. But the climate of England is certainly very moist, and every precaution must be taken to carry away the superfluous waters from the borders. Ventilation is an inexhaustible subject, and one of much moment to the horticulturist. In the Orchard-house, however, it is much simplified, though I see that Mr. Rivers recommends fewer top ventilators than were of use at first, and certainly cold currents of air, especially if charged with excessive moisture, cannot be suitable to peach culture. Precautions must therefore be taken to guard against these, as also against strong winds acting directly on the ripened fruit. 118 CORDON TRAINING. r Ventilation is chiefly necessary to carry off noxious /vapours, and it is inconceivable how soon these Ure generated. A minute quantity of sulphurous ) acid will cause every leaf in the house to drop in day. In forcing-houses ventilation in the spring is rather injurious than beneficial. When the air is charged with moisture it is more suitable for plants in a growing state than when they are ready to rest. "The skilful balancing of the temperature and moisture of the air, and a just adaptation of them to the various seasons of growth, constitutes the most complicated part of a gardener's art." — Lindlerfs Theory of Horticulture, Enough, however, has been said on these sub- jects, and perhaps by this time the reader is reduced to that condition in which Horace, anxious to prepare for his supper party, que- rulously tells his servant, "Persicos odi, puer, apparatus,"- which, as the botanical name of the peach is st Persica," may be thus rendered : " Gardener, I am sick of your peach training." The principal suggestions are — summer pinch- ing reduced to a method, and perfected in the winter pruning of peaches on the alternate sys- tem ; and the placing the trees diagonally at short intervals. I have not dwelt much on the obvious advantage of being able in this way to occupy a valuable wall with a succession of fruits, precious to the cultivator as this must be, because it seemed to me that the being able to CONCLUSION. 119 shorten the period in which the wall space could be covered with fruitful wood, completely over- shadowed other considerations, for in horticul- ture, as in other matters, the gain of a year is of inestimable value. I only wish, therefore, to say that no appre- hension need be entertained of the shoots on the leaders becoming too long to manage, (an apprehension, by the bye, not without its cause, for Mr. Rivers writes to me on this subject, that he finds these very shoots "always fighting to get away from the tree,") but by merely allow- ing a few leaves to grow beyond the long bear- ing shoot (as in the vine), and by cutting, it back to two buds directly after bearing, the shoots can be kept compact, fruitful, and close to the main stem. In all these cases, the reader will readily have discerned that my favourite is the Diagonal Cordon, but with the exception of the growth on the lower sides of this form being weaker than those on the upper, the management of the spurs and shoots is the same in all cases. I have had much pleasure in writing this book, but at the close I feel that others will profit by my hints, and that I must exert myself if I wish to keep pace with them in the friendly race. •_;>_ f-.-MTY "1 LONDOIf PRINTED BY 8POTII8WO0DE AND NEW-STKEET SQUAME 14 DAY USE RETURN TO DESK FROM WHICH BORROWED LOAN DEPT, This book is due on the Use date stamped below, or on the date to which renewed. Renewed books are subject to immediate recall. , ^j^^^N REC'U L.U JUL t <*>* m im ttLt* « l&Sfifttf 11 ^^ L & ni »